Author Topic: Taper rate  (Read 569 times)

Offline JamesV

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Taper rate
« on: January 02, 2011, 10:36:00 AM »
How does taper rate effect performance in a glass R/D longbow? .002 versus .004. Smooth draw and stacking.
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Offline mater

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2011, 11:06:00 AM »
You have to match it with the size and style of bow you are building. Post what your trying to achieve and you wil get more accurate info.
 But generaly speaking, I use more taper in long straight bows. Say .004 in hill style and .001 in short highly reflex-deflex style. I have made some with no taper at all, and have had very good results.

Offline JamesV

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2011, 12:49:00 PM »
Mild R/D 62" NTN, 17' riser, .004 taper, .410 total stack, 60lb @28. This combination shoots very good but tends to start stacking over 28 29. Everything being equal, would this be better with .002 taper?
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Offline Sixby

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2011, 04:00:00 PM »
To last question :Yes Another thing which would help a bit would be to add a 5 or 6 inch tip wedge which would be .040 to 0 taper. I would use the tip wedge on any R and D. My best shooting bows have had .003 total taper. God Bless and good luck, Steve

Online kennym

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2011, 04:06:00 PM »
The width makes lots of diff too, a 1 1/4" wide will stand more taper than a 1.5" wide.

I'm with Steve, .003 total taper on d/r bows,and with a tip wedge and power lam!
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Offline mater

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2011, 07:22:00 PM »
I think it would be better at .002. The tip wedges change some things. You might not want to make to many changes at once or you wont know what did what. [Thats experience speaking]Ive made some weird shooting bows that way.

Offline hova

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2011, 08:05:00 PM »
i figured id start reading these glass posts , but its just jibberish to me...
ain't got no gas in it...mmmhmmm...

Online jess stuart

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Re: Taper rate
« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2011, 09:41:00 PM »
The more taper you have, the more the limb bends towards the tips.  The more bend at the tips the sooner it will stack due to reduced string angle.  I agree with Sixby about the tip wedges helping with smoother draw.  You are also able to some degree determine where and how the limb bends when using tip wedges.  Taper and the use of tip wedges and power lams will allow you to get the limb to bend where you want it to.  All of the above statements are of course generalities. There could be some exceptions.

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