i will tell you what Bert Frelink told me- and he has built a bunch of bows- i shot an elb BBI of his for quite a while- i loved it.
he said- to always make sure the the taper on the ipe is very consistant- other wise the ipe WILL chrysall/fail.
so i geuss if the backing is inconsistant( like boo is at the nodes) then that is where the ipe is going to want to be thinner i geuss- and prone to failure.
this is where i defer to greater experience- and hope that some others chime in here- particularly Big Bert.
i have built probably six ipe bows now, all of them have been HBI, and all have survived.
some have had up to 3" of reflex glued into them and were only 55" long( with a 24" draw though)
but i swear by the revered gizmo, and go by what pat says about preparing hickory backings.
i glue all up with urac, i prep all with acetone, i scour all surfaces with a sawzall blade- i find the hacksaw blade not aggressive enough.
i dont like to use clamps, as i feel that they create high pressure areas- that will glue starve.
not saying they dont work- just saying what i use, that has worked for me- but i am a far cry from being an expert- say you know the definition of an expert;
ex- is a has been
spert- is a drip under pressure.
i geuss an airhose, or inner tube wrap form will work well.
but this is what i use.
reflex on one side. D/R on the other. clamp holes for heating and bending staves, and the short dowel rods for the stationary quality extra thick rubber bands.