Author Topic: trade bow / 60" elm static recurve (Read 7440 times)

shikari · « **Reply #80 on:** February 02, 2011, 01:19:00 PM »

that bow has got me drooling Pat,excellent job.

tenbrook · « **Reply #81 on:** February 02, 2011, 02:17:00 PM »

Thanks Pat!

Dan Landis · « **Reply #82 on:** February 02, 2011, 05:30:00 PM »

Pat,I would like to ask a question, if you don't mind. I just finished heat treating a 65" HHB bow using the directions from TBB IV. This bow was tillered to 55# @28" before tempering. Since it is so dry here right now, I've let it sit for over a week now and have only floor bent the limbs a few inches. Before tempering it had around 2"+ of set, when I get it retillered we'll see how much set returns. Would it help to reduce set if I remove some more from the belly before pulling back to 28"?

Pat B · « **Reply #83 on:** February 02, 2011, 05:52:00 PM »

It won't hurt it to remove some of the of the belly if it needs it. If you did like Marc the tempering goes deep so it should not take too much set if any. Have you exercised the bow well after each tillering? One thing I do while building is once I get about 10" on the short string I'll low brace it and let it sit like that for an hour or so(sweating). If you do this as you are tillering you shouldn't get any more set because you are working that out while sweating it.

ron w · « **Reply #84 on:** February 02, 2011, 05:57:00 PM »

Outstanding job Sir

Dan Landis · « **Reply #85 on:** February 02, 2011, 07:54:00 PM »

Pat, Yes, I usually do about 30 - 40 pulls on the tree gradually working up to just short of the draw that it was before the wood was removed. Hope that makes sense. This is my first time working HHB and heat treating.....Dan

Pat B · « **Reply #86 on:** February 02, 2011, 11:32:00 PM »

Sounds good Dan. Makes perfect sense.
HHB makes a great bow.

Dan Landis · « **Reply #87 on:** February 03, 2011, 10:46:00 AM »

Pat, Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me and all the others that post here. I always look forward to reading you posts, because they are so helpful.....Dan

Pat B · « **Reply #88 on:** February 05, 2011, 02:07:00 PM »

I have her pulling about 50#@22" now and the string tracks pretty well. I may have to do a final adjustment but I'll worry about that later.
With the string tracking well and only a short way to go I decided to add overlays, both to the tips and back of the handle. I like a bulbous handle(hope my reciepient does) and usually add a leather overlay that will be shaped when the final handle shape is made. I also added cow horn tip overlays. These will also be shaped when the final tip shape is made.
Not long ago I started using rubber bands as clamps for some of my overlay glue ups. I buy a bag at Walmart cut each to make a long strip and stretch and wrap after the glue is applied. These give good even pressure and positive pressure until the glue(TBIII) cures.
With the leather back overlay I use shoe sole leather. You can buy these pre-cut shoe soles from a shoe shop(if they still exist) or a custom leather shop. I trace the handle area on the leather and cut it on my bandsaw. Then soak it until pliable, wipe off the excess water and glue it down to the handle back and secure with the rubber bands as before. The wet shoe leather will conform to the contours of the back for a good fit. I pre-taper the tip overlays into a wedge shape that featheres out to nothind for a good transition from overlay to bow. I do the same with the leather handle overlay but on both ends also for a smooth transition.

Here is the leather handle overlay glued and secured with the rubber bands.

Pat B · « **Reply #89 on:** February 05, 2011, 02:11:00 PM »

...and the tips with the cow horn overlays glued and secured with the rubber bands. All overlays will get an initial shaping when the glue cures in a few hours. I used TBIII for all these overlays.
...the top tip overlay...

...and the bottom tip overlay...

Pat B · « **Reply #90 on:** February 05, 2011, 05:10:00 PM »

I got the initial shaping of the handle and tip overlays. here are a few pics...

Pat B · « **Reply #91 on:** February 05, 2011, 05:13:00 PM »

...and the tips before shaping...

...and after initial shaping. These tips will be narrowed after I string the bow again and check the string allignment.

1oldbowguy · « **Reply #92 on:** February 05, 2011, 05:50:00 PM »

Looking good, real good in fact.

ber643 · « **Reply #93 on:** February 06, 2011, 09:15:00 AM »

That is fast beginning to foretell a mighty pretty bow, Pat.

broketooth · « **Reply #94 on:** February 06, 2011, 09:30:00 AM »

i certainly appreciate your build-a-long pat. ive been learning alot from you. i didnt realize that you got this far along. ive been sick for a couple of days. im lookin foward to seein the rest. ruddy

KellyG · « **Reply #95 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:16:00 AM »

Looks good Pat and thanks for the sharing all that knowledge with the rest of us knuckle heads.

Keenan · « **Reply #96 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:26:00 AM »

Looking great Pat, Very good builalong!

Pat B · « **Reply #97 on:** February 06, 2011, 10:40:00 AM »

Thanks guys. I'm enjoying the process as much as you guys are reading about it. To me, this is what wood bow building is all about, sharing these processes with anyone and everyone that is interested. Pass it on!

red hill · « **Reply #98 on:** February 06, 2011, 11:44:00 AM »

Pat, while scouting out new location for a stand location back in Novemeber, I came across a nice elm tree. It's about 9-10 inches in diameter and the trunk is pretty straight. Next time I'm at the lease she's comin' home with me! Good job.
Stan

Pat B · « **Reply #99 on:** February 06, 2011, 11:48:00 AM »

This is my first real attempt with elm and so far I am very pleased. I'll rank it up there with almost any other whitewood...as long as this bow works out!

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Author Topic: trade bow / 60" elm static recurve (Read 7440 times)

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