Simple/Cheap Tillering Tree

[Flyboy718]

Guys I need some insight on how to build a cheap and simple tillering tree...a buddy off mine has offered to help me build one with the use of his shop.

[don s]

just a tree or are you refering to a pully system?
       don

[hova]

just get some framing lumber. its like 2$ for 8 ft. you want your piece to be about eye level. you can either cut some feet for it or screw it to a wall. a wall is better cause you know its not going to come flying at you...at least i hope not

then you just get some rope and a pulley and a scale and youre set.

a cheap scale can be had at wally world in the luggage section for <8$

-hov

-hov

[don s]

you would be wise to put some sort of grid section behind the setup. this allows you to compare both limbs and how they bend relitive to the grid. to show them bending equal or with positive tiller for the top limb.
                                 don

[Schmidtster]

My tillering tree was a 2x4 with nails hammered in at a slight angle every inch. I just put the top agianst the handle and pulled the string, the tension held it in place. Kinda schetchy but worked.

[Dave Bowers]

yeah its doesn't have to be crazy. Couple 2x4s, an eye hook and rope. Sure you can do more, but to get started it"ll work.

[KellyG]

fly boy I am working on mine tonight I will focus on it and get pics up. This is not a hard tool. My first one was a scrap peice of wood that. Had notches cut in it I wouild put the bow on the end and pull the string bac to the notch.
Then use the tile floor. Joe put an exsample of one under my currnet thread.
Kelly

[hova]

i forgot the grid behind it cause i just put some foamcore board up the other day. i forgot to draw lines on it...lol...


dont use siding on your house. its probably not level , and its a pain in the rear to stabilize a tree against siding...

-hov

[don s]

the point of the pully system is to excersise the limbs each time you remove wood. it's not difficult to do. your already going to be using a 2x4. all you need now is rope and pully(s).
                                         don

[Flyboy718]

Thanks for the replys everyone...yea I need a rope and pulley.  Don, I will be watching out for your pics and would like to see.  I am gonna put a grid behind it too, that seems to make it all the more easier to see the bend of the limbs.  Hova, gonna go check wally world for luggage scale.

[Stinger]

Flyboy,

I recently got help here to make my tree and here is a picture.  It cost all of about $5 to make, but I already had the 2 pulleys and the scale. I put it up on a wall in my garage using the wall studs to anchor my screws. The bow hangs on a screw in tree step that has a piece of rubber heater hose on it.  There is an eye screw that screws into a stud that holds the rope end and then the rope goes through a lower double pulley that is attached to an eye screw in the stud.  The rope then goes up to another pulley that attaches to the scale and then back down to the lower pulley.  This 3:1 purchase makes pulling the bow a breeze.  A sheet of butcher paper with lines marked off at every inch makes it easy to see how the limbs are doing in relation to one another.  The only thing I have to remember is that the Cabelas scale pulls 3# light.  I have never seen one of those type of scales that didn't read 3# light.

 

[Flyboy718]

Stinger...that is great!  Any way you could get a close up of the pulley system so I can see how to rig it up?

[hova]

i like that. very simple.

[Pat B]

I actually like a single pulley instead of a block system. I like the positive between the pull and the bend in the bow. Even when I made a 95#@30" war bow I used the single pulley system.
  As said about the purpose of the tiller tree is so you can exercise the stave after wood removal and be able to stand back from your work and see tiller. You don't want to hold a bow that is being built(or already built for that matter) statically for more than a second or two. It stresses the uneducated bow too much and can be a cause of set in the bow.

[Stinger]

This should give you a better picture.  You can see where the rope is tied to the eye screw in the center lower third of the picture.  The rope then runs down through one of the sheaves in the double pulley (I had a few spares from my sailboat) and then up to the pulley attached to the scale and then back down through the other sheave in the lower pulley and then out to your hand.  The only lash up required is attaching the upper pulley to the "T" handle on the scale.  I simply ran a smaller rope with a loop at both ends around the "T" on each side and then down through the attaching loop on the top of the pulley.

Agree with Pat B on not holding it stressed too long.  I made this particular setup because I need to remove draw weight from that recurve and there was a slight twist in one of the limbs and I wanted to see how far off the tiller was.  Using the 3:1 purchase allows me to pull the bow slower and with much less effort than a single pulley, which allows me to look at the limbs throughout the draw much easier.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I hung a 4 x 8 sheet of 1/2 drywall and used that for the light colored background to put horizontal lines on to compare limb tip level. Single pulley at floor level and 12 feet of cord.

[hova]

just remember when using more than one pulley , effort is reduced , but the length you will have to pull will increase. not a huge deal unless youre running more than 3 pulleys , and even then it shouldnt be a dealbreaker , just letting you know.


heres my stick. i gotta get a pulley. i leave my bows pulled to where im working on for long periods sometimes. that might explain some of the set i have.remember , the foamcore was just put up yesterday. with tacks...

 

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by hova:
[QB]  i leave my bows pulled to where im working on for long periods sometimes. that might explain some of the set i have.

Watcha mean by leavin them pulled...you leave them on the tiller tree drawn?  If so, how long?  Is this good or bad for them?

[Art B]

Looks like Hova only has his bow drawn down close to normal brace height. Once you have your tiller even (he's close) then it's no difference than having it strung up. If your bow isn't to heavy at that point then thats a good proceedure to use to "sweat" off the initial weight it going to lose once you start drawing the bow anyways.....Art

[don s]

Originally posted by Flyboy718:
Thanks for the replys everyone...yea I need a rope and pulley.  Don, I will be watching out for your pics and would like to see.  I am gonna put a grid behind it too, that seems to make it all the more easier to see the bend of the limbs.  Hova, gonna go check wally world for luggage scale.

my setup is almost identical to stingers. i don't have a grid behind it because when i built it i didn't know or think about it at the time. i did the floor tile method. i mentioned it because i wanted to give you an idea before you did what i did. i don't have pics.