Looking for critique on tillering

[dinorocks]

Now that deer season is over, I have been very busy finishing up some selfbows projects.  To take a quick step back, I am relatively new to bow making; I have made a few bows from blanks for me and my kids.  The bows below were made from staves (the black cherry were trees that I cut and split).  After 4 years of hunting exclusively with a selfbow (and arrows) that I made myself, this year was the first year I harvested deer (two – doe and buck)… I have been trying to position myself for the "perfect" shot.

If possible, can you provide some constructive feedback on the bows below?

Black Cherry (back is sapwood and handle contains some heart wood…beautiful wood!)
36# at 26”, 70 ½” nock to nock, 1 7/8” fade, 5/8” tip.  After reading all I could find on cherry bows, I decided to make this bow long, wide, and light in an effort not to have it break (I was hoping not to have to back the bow…although backing it with cherry bark would be kind of cool).  I dubbed this bow complete and started sealing it with Formby's tung oil.

 

 

 

Black Cherry  – I got my brother excited to make a selfbow but he got a little rasp happy and I needed to make some adjustments for him.
I have not strung this bow…still in tillering stage.  I have been trying to avoid a hinge near the handle so I’m a bit wary to brace the bow just yet.

We would like to get 45# at 26’ish”.  The length is 63 ¼” nock to nock, 1 5/8” fade, 3/4” tip.  I’m still trying to flatten out the belly…the rasp has thinned the edges of the limb near the handle…I may need to tweak the bow dimensions (I’m winging it as I have no clue on proper fade/length/tip ratios).

 

The last bow is an Osage bow (I’m not skilled with power tools and ended up “bottle-necking” one of the limbs when I was using a bandsaw…a friend helped me even it off).
Currently the bow is at 55# at 26”, 64” nock to nock, 1 ½” fade, 5/8” tip, (pict of 6” brace height…may want to increase the brace height a bit to accommodate my long fletching. Looking for a finished weight of ~50#.

 
pict of bow not at full draw

 
I was thinking that I was close to finished with tillering...not sure which will be upper/lower limb.

My next project is a Mulberry bow and two hickory bows for my kids.  Again, I appreciate you looking at the picts and welcome any comments that will help steer me to a successful completion!

Take care,
Dino

[bigcountry]

That first one has a nice tiller.  I would get this last one osage, bending much more at the fades area and tip.

[dinorocks]

Thanks for your response Bigcountry!

Does anyone else have any suggestions for me?  I was going to wait to continue work on the bows until I heard back from some Trad Gang'ers.

Greatly appreciated!!

Dino

[tenbrook]

Dude I'm loving the vinal flooring for a graph.  My tiller tree is outdoors and I have been trying to find a weather proof alternative.....Found it!    

Thanks!

[tenbrook]

Top bow.

Right limb needs more bend in the midlimb.  This is your weak limb so be careful you don't miss your draw weight.

Middle bow.

Both limbs seem to be doing most of the bending early (in the fades)  Be careful because this is one way to get alot of set.  Both limbs need to bend more in the outer two 2/3.

Bottom bow.

Left limb looks good to me.  Right limb needs more bend in the fades.  Once again....This is your weak limb so be careful you don't miss your draw weight.

Hope this helps.

Tenbrook

[beetlebailey1977]

I am no expert, but I suggest to not draw the bows past your desired weight while tillering.  Always go to the weight you are shooting for and stop.  The 1st bow looks pretty darn good.

[okie64]

Top bow looks good to me. The bottom osage bow could use a little more bend up around the fades I think. If youre at 55# at 26" and youre shootin for 50 at 28" it isnt going to take a whole lot of wood removal in the inner limbs to get there so be careful.

[DVSHUNTER]

They are coming along fine. Your tree setup is awesome. you should be just fine. Just read the tree!

[dinorocks]

Thanks all!  I think I have enough info so I can resume tillering!

Take care,
Dino

[hova]

they both look good. a little finish tweaking and youre there.

i didnt realize that was flooring , that is an awesome idea,  i really like the way you laid it out. makes it a lot easier for me to compare than the normal 1" grid or even 2" grid. i love the rectangle.


-hov

[dinorocks]

Actually, I think that it is bathroom wall paneling...could be flooring I guess...not very thick, hence the 2x4 bracing.  This was a Lenco-Lumber (local store) special (only ~$15).  

I would like to install a moveable yard stick on the tillering tree.  Also, I need to update my scale...the scale I'm currently using is an antique with markings every 4 pounds (labeled every 8 pounds).  I have hung weights off the scale and it seems to be somewhat accurate.

Dino

[Aznboi3644]

first bow is a bit stiff on the right mid limb

[Dean Marlow]

I am with bigcountry. Like the tiller on the first one. The osage needs more bending right out of the fades.

[Roy from Pa]

They look nice considering your lack of experience. Your learning fast..

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I think you know more than you give yourself credit for Dino.

The top bow looks real good. Little more positive tiller on the left limb than the right, but that's probably about how you would want it and you said that you called that one done so I'd leave it alone.

2nd bow needs more all the way throughout and it looks like you've got a real even start, just keep working it down evenly until you get more draw out of it, then post another pic of that one. It's too early for me to really tell on that bow yet, except that it looks even.

3rd Osage bow looks good, but as others have already said it's a little flat in the fades and needs more at the tips, I believe your good in the mid limb area.
Is that out of one of the staves I sold ya?
Just curious.......I think your doing great.

Forgot to mention the tillering board, awesome idea I love it!  

[George Tsoukalas]

The first one is excellent. Beautiful tiller. The second needs to bend more mid limb on and the second needs to bend more from the fades to mid limb. Jawge