'Stiffening up" self bows?

[PEARL DRUMS]

I built a hickory self bow 10 years ago. The bow shoots alright and has perfect grain. Its a great piece of wood than never gets used due to low draw weight and not so hot cast. If I were to clamp it in my 6" relfex form and back it with sinew would it hold some of the reflex and add draw weight? I cant stand seeing such a nice chunk just sitting there, its too good to not try something on.

[Pat B]

I think a better option would to add a belly lam of a compression strong wood like osage or ipe. I did this with a 60" osage static recurve I made a few years ago. The wood wasn't seasoned for long and the bow began to fret on the lower limb and take set. I glued on an Argentine osage slat and retillered the bow. Before adding the belly lam the bow pulled 45#@26" and after retillering it pulls 56#@26" now.

[PEARL DRUMS]

My belly is quite rounded Pat. I dont think I could get a lam on there. The back is flat as a pancake still. I considered adding a bamboo, or hickory backing. I was just hoping the sinew trick would work.

[Art B]

I like the idea of sinew myself. Should be easy enough the add at least 10#. Maybe more if the bow needs cut down due to length.

Give us some specs on your bow and intended draw length........Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

Art the bow is 65" ntn and about 1 5/8 wide at the fades. Straight taper from half way to the tips, about a 5/8 wide there. I could cut more off the length. This bow has perfect grain and would probably allow another 2-3" to be cut off easily. I would like to get her around 50#+ at 28". Its about 41-42# now with about 3.5" of set that makes it quite sluggish to shoot. If I could add 8-10# and knock my set down to an inch or less I would be tickled.

[John Scifres]

I had one about like that gifted to me once.  Here's how I "fixed" it.    FIXIT

[George Tsoukalas]

It's too long for sinew. It will add too much weigh. Make another one and have more fun.    Jawge

[Osagetree]

Nice one John!

Pearl, you could do as John did but also flip up the tips,,, about the last 1/3rd of the limbs. I bet you'll gain consierable poundage and if not,,, then take 1" to 1 1/2" off each tip. Narrow and re-work the tips a bit and I'll bet you get 50#.

Go shorter for more #'s?? 60" length + 28" draw = might push the limits of Hickory from my experience!!!

I'd use steam too!

[Art B]

That round belly of your bow may hamper you a bit.

My most shot bow ever was a 58" dogwood recurve that took on 3" of string follow and I could hit anything I wanted to. Set it back 4 1/2" (behind the handle) and sinewed (w/Tite-bond II). It now holds 1 1/2" of reflex. Maybe the fastest bow I own now. Can't hit a lick of anything with it anymore.

Figure it up, that 4 1/2" of net gain.

You're going to need to shorten your bow. But with that rounded belly (most of which has to go), I would reduce to around 60-62". I know some will say that's still too long for your 28" draw but your bow's present condition must be taken into account.......Art

[Osagetree]

Regarding PatB's suggestion,,,, it works. Use a belt sander to flatten the belly top of fade to tip or to the last 6". Add the osage slat 1/8" or so. Trim and round over to blend it all back in.
Bam! 10 pounds depending on slat thickness

[PEARL DRUMS]

Since I have nothing to lose on this jewel, maybe I should make it a 60-62" sinew backed flip tipped recurve!?!?!?? If anything I could get some good practice on things I rarely do, or never have. If it bwakes it bwakes!

[Osagetree]

That's a good attitude!

[matts2]

I need to hijack this thread a bit.  I have a bow that is way to light after over tillering.  Would hickory on the inside work.  I am not sure if that is a compression wood.  The bow is oak and 68" ntn.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Well my gallon Zip Loc of processed leg sinew showed up today, WOW thats alot of sinew. I want to shorten the bow 1" on each end and clamp it in me reflex form then sinew it. I know it sounds too short but before I decided to try and salvage the bow I pulled it to 32" on my tree and it didnt even flinch. I know it will hold up to my draw. How will that sinew act in a tension setting? Will it hold tight to the limbs if I clean them up good? And one more question. I have TBIII for glue. That stuff sets fast and I wondered how a guy can get a limb covered in sinew before it sets up in the bowl of glue and sinew and on the bow? Any advice is more than welcome, thanks

[Art B]

Hope you don't mind some sore fingers        !

Here's how I do mine:

After your fingers are feeling better and you're ready to start the sinewing job, take and seperate your sinew into bundles ('bout 8-10 threads).

I use a shallow alumimum roasting pan filled with about an inch or two of warm water. I take a bundle and swash around in the water and then tack the upper end of the bundle to the side of pan, leaving the bulk of the bundle in the water. I repeat this until I think I have enough for one full layer of sinew.

For the glue, I use a smaller alumimum roasting pan. Cover the bottom of the pan with glue. Doesn't take all that much glue really. You're just going to lay your wet bundles in the glue, NOT submerge them.

Helps to have a wood/plastic cutting board for combing (a small comb will do) and cutting (w/razor blade) the wet bundles.

Now that your sinew has soaked for 30 min or so, grab a bundle and squeegee the water out, comb out (on the cutting board), trim if needed (that's what the razor balde is for), lay in the glue (no need to submerge). Do the rest of your bundles the same way.

Now take a bundle out of the glue (might need a toothpick or something here to get one end raised up) and start the job. Start laying the bundles out from tip to handle, slightly overlapping the bundles as you go. Quick, easy and probably won't take but 'bout 30 min. or so to finish up.....Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thanks Art! Whats the sore finger thing about? You got me on that one! Do I want a smooth surface, or toothed?

[Art B]

Smooth surface for the Tite-bond Glue. Sand with 120-180 grit if bare wood. Wouln't hurt to size that with a coat of clue before hand and let tack or dry before appling the sinew w/glue.

You're using leg tendions, right? Hard on the fingers! Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

They are leg tendons, but they are pounded out and almost all the same length already, within an inch or so. Do I go the full length, or just to the fades? That should be my last question. Thanks for all your advice so far, Im going for it!

[Art B]

You can go from tip to handle or from 6-10" in from the tips to the handle. The latter saves a little tip weight. Do one limb to the center of your handle and then repeat the process for the other limb.

It probably works best if you would do one layer of sinew, let dry for about 5 days and then add another layer. A lot of sinew added at one time is prone to have more gaps because of shrinkage/drying.

Be sure to give your bow that 4-5" of reflex you mentioned earlier in your post. You may want to heat your limbs to make the reflexing easier.....Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

I just took it down to 62" tip to tip and taperted the last 12" from 1 5/8" to  1/2" wide at the tips. I ground the back flat as a pancake. Then I put it in my relfex form with about 4" of relfex. It clamped down pretty easy after narrowing the tips and grinding the back flat.I have to get some tins tomorrow after work and a cheapy plastic comb. How many layers do you suggest? Im actually excited to see what happens Art. Even if this bow doesnt make it I will know how sinew works, and what it added for draw weight and such. I know this bow will take a heck of a bending. Breaking wont be my problem, keeping the sinew stuck down will be my only concern I think. Pats thread about sinew popping off makes me worry.