Tool questions

[Chris Grimbowyer]

I Have been building a few bows lately and I am mainly trying to stay with osage because for me it works best and I love to work with it, some say it is hard to work with but I started with it and did just fine. I am looking into getting a card cabinet scraper and a goose neck scraper and I was wondering for osage if I should get one thin or thick? I like all begginers have a little trouble with tillering I think I am removing wood a little too fast with my 4 way rasp because I count my strokes and use it the way Dean Torges described as too run it up and down the limb and not back in forth because you will make mountains of uneven wood. I am having trouble getting the rasp marks out of the belly with sand paper without affecting tillering at all, Would a good scraper work for final tillering on the belly for me aswell? I found a few on this website I am thinking about purchasing.   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/curvedscrapersetthin.aspx        http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bahco474thincardscraper.aspx     So in your opinion should I get a thin or thick scraper? I was just thinking of thin because I woulds imagine it would be easier to get into smaller areas that require some percision like getting around knots on the back. Thanx for all replies.

[longbowhntr]

Thin or thick is pretty much a personal thing, I have both and usally use the thicker ones most of the time. But my bow building buddy prefers the thin one more, so hmmm I don't know.  :confused:  

When I get close to final tiller a scraper is just about all I use.

Have fun building David

[fujimo]

i prefer the thick- i used a rasp on my first bow- but now all i use is a spokeshave, and a scraper- i can really control the spokeshave- and it leaves a smooth finish- veritas make a low angle spoke shave- thats next on my "to buy" list- i use both a flat spoke shave and a convex spokeshave ( hollowing spokeshave- the sole is curved so you can follow undulations easy).
veritas sell them too.
g'luck
wayne

[okie64]

I use a gooseneck scraper to get to the final ring on the back. When I get within 6" of final draw length when tillering all I use is a scraper, not a gooseneck scraper, I use a big knife turned up on its edge. You can also use your spokeshave as a scraper too. Screw the blade out too far and turn it up on its edge.

[Chris Grimbowyer]

Thanx guys I am going to use scrapers for final tillering on my next bow.

[Eric Krewson]

I use a cheap palm sander with 120grit paper for my final tilering. It makes you go slow but will take off a lot of wood if you use much pressure. It also gets rid of the washboard effect left from scraping on your belly. This leaves you with a more professional looking bow instead of a hack job.

[John Scifres]

I use thicker scrapers.  I have a Bahco/Sandvik like this one:   http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=62   It accomplishes about 90% of my finish tillering and final finish work.  Learn how to sharpen it and you will not regret it.

[shadetreebowyer]

Went to the Salvation Army and bought what looks like a cake icing spreader for 45 cents, brought it home put it in the vise , filed it a few licks  wow what a scraper! It's got a nice wooden handle too.

[Roy from Pa]

When I get a bow to the tillering tree, I use a scraper and a long sanding block. The sanding block has a foam pad on it and is 12 inches long. I run the sanding block length wise up and down the limbs to keep them smooth and even. Also if you take apart a pair of good scissors, they make a good scraper.