Author Topic: cure time for TBIII at 150 degrees? (Read 626 times)

razorsharptokill · « **on:** February 17, 2011, 06:06:00 PM »

Have an laminated osage bow in the oven. How long till it can come out?

vanillabear? · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2011, 06:12:00 PM »

Art B · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2011, 06:13:00 PM »

Instructions on my bottle says clamp time is 30 mins and not to stress for 24 hrs..

I really don't like to use this type of glue with such oily wood like Osage. Good luck.......Art

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2011, 07:16:00 PM »

Used acetone prior to glue up and wiped it down good to remove residue. It has failed me once but I believe it was due to starved glue joint.

okie64 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2011, 07:19:00 PM »

I always use TB3 but I have never put it in an oven. I always just let mine set for a couple of days. Like vanillabear said I think it liquifies at 150.

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2011, 08:06:00 PM »

Ok, I turned it off and opend the lid. 2 hours at 150. We'll see how it does. I'll leave it till tomorrow before I take it out of the press.

This is the modified KennyM form I made. The power lam is between the taper and the parallel lams. This whole project is new ground for me.

soopernate · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2011, 08:10:00 PM »

I think you made a big mistake by heating up that glue like that. Perhaps thats why it failed you before?

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2011, 08:17:00 PM »

I strongly advise using URAC185 for wood to wood applications. It's really not that expensive in the long run. I've never had a URAC glue joint come apart.

D · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2011, 09:09:00 PM »

Roy and Pa. What temp do you heat your urac to?? I've only used TBIII but plan on using the urac

4est trekker · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2011, 09:12:00 PM »

Both URAC and TBIII cure at room temp (although URAC can be heated in an oven). And yes, a cured TBIII joint will release right around 150 degrees.

I often use TBIII. I glue it up at room temp and don't stress the joint for at least 24 hours.

Hope this helps.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2011, 09:27:00 PM »

URAC will dry in 6 hours at 70 degrees. Will dry in 1 hour at 100 degrees. However, that applies to unstressed glue joints. I make reflex / deflex bows, so that is a lot of stress. I put my bows in a heat box at 90 degrees for 24 hours to be safe. If I am going to put hours in building a bow, I want to use the best glue I can and let the glue dry for 24 hours to be safe. With that being said, I feel 24 hours at 70 degrees would work. But I feel better with 24 hours at 90 degrees.

In the past, I have rushed bow's, only to have failures on down the line. Nothing hurts more than losing a bow on the tillering tree, when you have 20 to 30 hours in, plus the cost of the materials. Trust me, I know:)

Pat B · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2011, 10:41:00 PM »

You had better seperate your glue up and re-glue it. If it was at 150 deg for two hours the TB glue is probably no good after the high temps. Cure TB glues at room temp.

ChristopherO · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2011, 01:00:00 PM »

Jim,
I've never used heat to cure TB111. Right now a riser is cooking in the oven at 170 Degrees but that is with Smooth On.
I will say this, though, I don't believe all is lost for your project. I have in the past steamed a riser (2 for that matter) for over an hour to induce a setback handle. That riser had the grip built up with wood and TB111. Upon removing the bow from the steam the glue joint was very loose and I could have taken it apart. Instead I just realigned it and clamped it into the setback jig. The next day all was well and the riser/s never seperated.
This isn't something I will intentionally do but that showed me that the glue reactivated.
May as well finish the bow and see how it holds up.

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #13 on:** February 18, 2011, 03:58:00 PM »

1st time I used heat with tightbond. Thanks guys.

horseapple · « **Reply #14 on:** February 18, 2011, 08:25:00 PM »

Mite I add why your using TB instead of Urac?

D · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2011, 09:22:00 PM »

Thanks for the help on the urac times everybody

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2011, 10:12:00 PM »

I have played the bow building game for years. For wood to wood glue up's, no other glue works as good as URAC185. And it does not need to be placed in a hot box. 70 degrees is fine, glue up the bow, and let it sit for 24 hours.

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #17 on:** February 19, 2011, 03:03:00 PM »

It is what I have on hand.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2011, 03:52:00 PM »

Understood Razor. Just suggesting the URAC to you for future bows. You will not be dissapointed with URAC.

Pat B · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2011, 04:30:00 PM »

I've had the glue fail on any backed bows I've made with TBII or TBIII. I do like Urac but TB glues work just fine.
I would be concerned about the glue you heated up to 150 deg for 2 hours though. Call TiteBond's tech support and ask them. That's how I found out about it releasing at 150deg. If it were my bow, I wouldn't take the chance of the heated glue being OK.

News:

Author Topic: cure time for TBIII at 150 degrees? (Read 626 times)

Users currently browsing this topic: