I hear it alot...PICS OF BOW ADDED

[NTD]

Roy,
That's a beautiful Tiller.

[Eric Krewson]

Looks like you need to put a gizmo check on that right limb, looks like a stiff spot midlimb in for about 8" and a hingy spot 6" in from the tip.

Could just be the picture as they distort things.

[PEARL DRUMS]

The first R/D I built I didnt get the tips moving first and ruined the bow, this one I over did it on the tips first and never caught up. Lessons learned! I have another getting ready for glue......Roy Boy paid good money to have a guy come over and tiller that bow for him.......

[horseapple]

Good tiller eye Eric, Pearl Drums, one of the first mistakes in someone tillering a R/D for the first time is... a perfect example of yours     leave them tips alone until the last bit of tillering

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Since I've never made one from a board before, please fill me in a bit on how you go about it. I assume that your not chasing a ring on a board bow? That's why some of them are backed I assume?
Then my next question would be how do you keep from getting a splinter on the edge of your limb if there's no ring to chase? Or is the grain running verticle on a board rather than horizontal like it would on a stave ring?
Did any of that make sense.

[PEARL DRUMS]

No ring chasing at all, just a belly taper. This was actually 1/4 sawn chunk of gold I screwed up. I have never had a splinter on any board bows I have made or broke. I sand the edges after every scraping session and I back every bow I attempt to build. To be honest SEMO, Im inches from quitting the board/backed business and just try building good ol fashioned stave bows. I never have. Im growing tired of poor glue lines, oodles of clamps, glued joints popping free and all the other head aches that come with laminated bows. I realize bows from stave have their own challenges as well. I have another set of osage slats Roy from PA graciously gave me to work on. I am going to give it my all and see what happens. If it fails Im buying a draw knife and a seasoned stave. I refuse to give up, just need to change directions. Glass bows just dont do much for me so I have to find an alternative.

[Roy from Pa]

I dunno Eric, I ran the gizmo along it at this draw lock down, had a nice gap along the entire limb. The hinge you may see looks to me like the node on the back of the bow distorting  the looks. The camera is off to the left a bit. The bow is in the midwest now, so I can't work on her no mo..

[vanillabear?]

[Roy from Pa]

Scott, the grain on that bow looks just perfect Dude.

[vanillabear?]

[SEMO_HUNTER]

That explains alot guys thanks for the info, and that's kinda what I was thinking but not sure.
Seeing the picture you posted Scott really cleared it up for me.

Pearl Drums- I think you would be good at working a stave, you already got the jist of what's going on with your tiller and shaping. I think it would be a simple transition and chasing a ring is no biggie after you've done it a time or two.....just time consuming sometimes. The biggest difference in working a stave is that no 2 are exactly alike, so each one has to be approached a little different. It's not a cookie cutter operation when your working with staves, but some guys know their way around a stave so well that they make it look easy......I'm not one of them.    

I say go for it!  

[PEARL DRUMS]

Well being the hard headed German I am I couldnt possibly toss this bow in the wood pile just because the tips were light. So I cut off each end and Im in the process of tillering it back to to weight. My goal is 50# @ 28", that may be pushing it for a rigid handle bow that is now 59" NTN. The 1/4 sawn core may be my savior. We shall see!

[Chris Grimbowyer]

I hope your bow turns out great Pearl.

[NYArrow]

Really nice work! I hope to do an osage bow at some point.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Its a treat to scrape, sand and rasp. Nothing like hickory, oak or maple. Dont wait too long NYArrow!