Author Topic: Hickory set, repair?(Exploded!!) (Read 707 times)

TroutGuide · « **on:** February 21, 2011, 03:18:00 PM »

I have a hickory self bow almost to completion and I am getting a lot of set after unbracing. I was warned this might happen bc it is only 58" ntn. I have it to 45@26 but would like to take it to 45@28 if possible. What can I do at this point to prevent and possibly remove the set. I think the wood is dry enough but I do not have a good way to tell other than it was cut almost a year ago and in a hot garage all summer. I'm thinking heat treating the belly to temper it as well as inducing some reflex at the same time. What do ya think?

Art B · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2011, 03:50:00 PM »

What are your limb dimensions? Limb shape (pyramid or retangular)?

Just being in a hot garage isn't good enough for any type wood unless you have the correct humidity to go with it. If your summers are humid then your bow wood probably has too high M/C.

For what you're building, I'd heat/flip the tips several inches and then heat/reflex the bow several more inches and sinew. Now that would make a screamer!

okie64 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:23:00 PM »

I would go ahead and tiller it on out to 45# at 28" and then heat treat the belly. Or you could tiller it down to 40# at 28 and then when you heat the belly you'll be between 45-50#. JMO

TroutGuide · « **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:24:00 PM »

The limbs are 1 3/4" wide fron the fades to 8 inches from the tips, rectangular profile. I do not plan on backing the bow in any way. I just want to make a regular self bow but I do not have a problem with reflexing it. It has naturaly fliped tips(slight). If it is too wet can it be salvaged by bracing on a form and drying further or is the damage done?

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:50:00 PM »

Does it have a non bending handle? If yes, it is too short. Even if the handle bends, it is too short. It is short even for 26" draw.
There's info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

TroutGuide · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:13:00 PM »

George I know it is too short I stated this in my first post. It is a non bending handle that is about 8". This blank is all I have at the moment. So is it trash or can I make a woking bow from it. I know it will not be the best ever but I would like to have something to show for my first try. What would you suggest for this blank and I will use better wood in the future. I have read almost all of your site and respect your advise.

John Scifres · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:28:00 PM »

Here's a similar bow I fixed not long ago.

I have seen some pretty short hickry bows. It's tough wood. Might as well take it out to full draw and see what happens. It probably will stack a lot so the weight you see might not convert very efficiently into energy to the arrow but what the heck? Fixit

okie64 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:10:00 PM »

I say you can definitely get a working bow from it. You could heat the set out and tiller it down to around 40# and it will be fine as long as your tiller is good. When I first started building bows I cut an ash tree and built a 57" selfbow, 55#, with an 8" stiff handle. I didnt know any better and it was all I had at the time so I know what you mean. It made it for about 100 shots before it blew up on me. I dont think you're hickory will break if your tiller is good though.

TroutGuide · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:13:00 PM »

John that looks like my bow except the tiller is better for now. I do need to get the fades bending more but now after seeing the set realy start to show I have stoped working on it. If I was going to heat treat it would I do that now or should I finish tillering as is and then heat it into reflex and retiller after that?

George still waiting to hear what you suggest as well, before I do anything.

TroutGuide · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:20:00 PM »

Thanks Okie64 that gives my hope, at least for the first 100 shots

No realy thanks for the encouragement. Im an Okie too(Tahleguah raised).

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:55:00 PM »

Sorry for the confusion. Trout, drawing it 28" may be a problem. I think it was a tremendous accomplishment getting it to 26". I have no fix for set except reflexing the ends. How much did you get? Jawge

Art B · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:59:00 PM »

Generally, you want to get your bow to brace, even tiller and have your string alignment right. Sounds like you pretty much got that part already.

Heat treating will draw and cup your limbs. Not to mention, crook less that perfect wood. Starting out with a slightly radius belly helps prevent the cupping.

You will still get some benefits from heat treating at this point. But since you have already drawn your bow out to 26" I wouldn't expect you'll see full benefits from this procedure. But I think you'll be pleased with what you do get......Art

formerbutcher · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2011, 07:31:00 PM »

How much set are we talking ? 1" 4" Some set is ok...

TroutGuide · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2011, 08:48:00 PM »

I don't realy know how to measure set but I know it looks like it's about half braced when I take the string off. It is about 7 1/2" braced so 4" if I had to guess. I still have a little twist That I planed on taking out with heat bc it was not tiller induced it is inherent to the stave. I think at this point I may build a form and try to staighten the twist and add some reflex along the way. What heat sorces are recomended for heat treating/bending?

George it realy looks good at 26 so I take your words as a compliment. I just know it will not perform in its current form. I guess I would rather brake it than just settle for something less than I want. I am going to cut Osage next week. Then we will make a real bow!! If I can wait for it to dry.

okie64 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 21, 2011, 10:58:00 PM »

To measure set unbrace your bow and lay it on a flat surface, then measure up from the surface to the tips. I use a heat gun for heat-treating. If you have TBB4 Marc St. Louis wrote a whole chapter on it in there. I would rather build a bow from osage too but hickory will make a good bow, you just need to know its limits.

Art B · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2011, 06:53:00 AM »

How well heat treating works depends a lot on growth ring thickness I think. Some hickory staves can have very thin outer rings.........Art

TroutGuide · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:21:00 AM »

I would say they are thin but not "very thin".

TroutGuide · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2011, 10:09:00 AM »

Well she was too short for 28"!!!! Blew at 45@27! Well it was fun trying and I feel very good about where I got to before she broke. Thanks for all the advise I will carry that into my next build. I had thrown this stave in the corner last summer and gave up on it. When I pulled it out a few weeks ago I said I was going to build it or brake it... oh well. I am going to cut some Osage and Mulberry next week and mabie some more hickory later in the spring. In the mean time I am also going to try some laminated bows. I will keep you posted.

TroutGuide · « **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2011, 10:31:00 AM »

I think I will smoke a brisket tomorrow!!

John Scifres · « **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:06:00 AM »

MMMmmmm, smoked brisket. Reduce, reuse, recycle. That's my motto for broken bows.

News:

Author Topic: Hickory set, repair?(Exploded!!) (Read 707 times)

Users currently browsing this topic: