Winged Elm Selfbow

[Flyboy718]

Just split me an winged elm sappling that I cut two weeks ago.  It is a perfect 2" wide at the handle area and about 1" to 7/8" thick for the length of the stave.  After I split it each piece has some awsome natural reflex to them.  Thinking about getting them to floor tiller and strapping them to a form with something to enhance the reflex in them until they completely dry.  Just wondering what length and dimensions you guys would recommend.  My draw is 30" and looking for about 43-45# at that draw.  
 

[Legionnaire]

1 3/4 wide, 64 inches long reflex bow stiff handle. or the same width but 61 inches long deflex reflex bow will make a lovely shooter. Just my 2 cents.

[JamesKerr]

I would just make it with the natural reflex in the bow I think that it should be 64 inches long with your draw length

[okie64]

Are you gonna make it stiff-handled or bendy?

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by okie64:
Are you gonna make it stiff-handled or bendy?

not sure, what do you guys recommend...thinking maybe adding a riser to it, I just like the look of a glued on riser and I can afford to cut a good shelf into it.  If I go with an added piece for a riser what would would be good to use?  I have some cedar and cypress or I could go get some pecan this weekend, now that would be cool.

[Mike Mecredy]

I'd use the stave on the right, No need to add any reflex to that tip, if you seal the ends with titebond II, and let it dry a while with the bark on, it will naturally reflex on it's own. After a few months take off the bark and let it finish drying.  Also leave the curvature on the back, don't decrown it.  Rather have the cross section of the limb oval shapped and leave it around 1 3/4" wide at the widest place.  Pyrimid limb profiled, leave it as long as you can to avoid exess (over 1 1/2") of string follow.  This design is a challenge  to tiller but I think you can do it.

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by Mike Mecredy:
I'd use the stave on the right, No need to add any reflex to that tip, if you seal the ends with titebond II, and let it dry a while with the bark on, it will naturally reflex on it's own. After a few months take off the bark and let it finish drying.  Also leave the curvature on the back, don't decrown it.  Rather have the cross section of the limb oval shapped and leave it around 1 3/4" wide at the widest place.  Pyrimid limb profiled, leave it as long as you can to avoid exess (over 1 1/2") of string
follow.  This design is a challenge  to tiller but I think you can do it.

Thanks Mike...yeah sealed the ends as soon as I felled it two weeks ago.  Hmmm, since you suggested the stave on the right, why don't I just take the one on the left and peel the bark off and get it to floor tiller stage and then let it dry a little...it could be my practice run?

[Mike Mecredy]

Good Idea on the practice stave.