Tiller for two fingers split

[Hardwoodman]

I was pleased two learn that there are many others who use two fingers split. That encourages me to ask; Is there a recommended tiller for this , on traditional bows ? I just made my first two glass laminated bows, and I read Byron Ferguson´s Book "Become the arrow" where he recommends :zero to 1/8" for three fingers under and 3/16" to 1/4" for three fingers split. But what about two fingers split, will this be 1/4" to 1/2 " or so ?

[bigcountry]

IMO, somewhere in the middle of split and 3 under.  More towards split.  Your putting even less stress on bottom limb with that one finger gone.  

I have been doing 1/4" even for 3 under lately.

[bjansen]

I would say it would be the same as 3 split, given your middle finger would be in the same position and a significant amount of pull come from that specific point.

[Hardwoodman]

Ok, thank you guys. I am struggling with pressure point on my grip; if i use low wrist, then my arrows hit high. My grip is flat, it is a selfbow after all. I havent figured out exactly where to place arrow pass either. 1" above center ?Is it common to make the top limb a little longer than bottom limb in selfbows ? In what way woud this affect the ideal arrow pass and ideal tiller ?
I would be grateful if someone could give me some insight in this.

[Art B]

One inch above arrow passes are more the norm for glass bows with some type of locator grip. Here, a more straight wrist grip is used. Standard for straight back grips, is on average, around 1 1/2" IMHO. For a very low hand position or low wrist grip it's wise to go even higher on the arrow pass, say up to two inches.

Yes, your arrow will impact high with an arrow pass too low and using a low wrist grip. You're in effect, shortening up the lower limb adding extra strain to it. Causes extra shock and foils limb timing too.

Think in terms of your limbs starting at the center of your bow. And "even limb mass". Using the "proper grip per arrow pass layout" you never really have a longer or shorter limb. Only the appearence of a longer upper limb........Art

[Hardwoodman]

Ah, that is really useful information ! Thank you, Art B ! I did actually shoot better after moving my arrow pass up a bit. But still I am feeling that I must use a higher wrist than I am used to to get good shots. So may be I should go further up the grip. I am now at 1 1/2" above canter. But the upper limb is actually 1" longer than the bottom limb. Don´t know why, It is an old spare bow I started using recently, after my old one broke...

[Art B]

The upper limb "should" show 1" longer with the arrow pass 1 1/2" above center. But the fade probably starts right at the arrow pass, with equal length fades, right? To build that same bow with same length limbs you would just need to add 1" of handle length "above " the arrow pass before starting the limb fade. Or make the upper fade 1" longer vs the lower fade.

It's really more about how you grip your bow, properly or not for it's arrow pass layout,
that makes a bow symmetrical or asymmetrical........Art

[Hardwoodman]

I see. Thanks a lot ! Actually the top limb is 1" longer measured from the fade. Not ideal I guess !  Should I shorten it, and retiller ?
To check the correct tiller, grip and arrow pass; If i put the bow on the tiller wall and rest the grip exactly where my hand should be and then pull to full draw. Should the limbs be perfectly even, the tips touching the same horizonal line, and the grip stay horizontal too ?  ( Hope that was understandable  )
Perhaps my top limb will travel a tiny bit slower than the bottom limb, due to the fact that it is longer ?
Grateful for all this advice !

[Art B]

A 1" longer upper limb only requires that you use a medium hold type grip for best limb timing. No need to shorten or retiller unless tiller is off. Once shortened, then properly retillered, little if any weight gain is achieved IMO.

Unless you shoot three under, where you're basically pulling the bow&string from their centers, using a tillering tree won't accurately depict your draw. Best method is to draw your bow, and using the proper grip, check for even/uneven limb strain at full draw. Only then, would you need to adjust one limb or the other if needed......Art