Uneven limb properties

[Roy from Pa]

To splice them for a full length stave, you need to z-splice or w-splice them together. You should do the splice on the thicker ring end of the staves. If you have the traditional bowyers bibles, there is a section in there about splicing.

[Art B]

Trick is to get both limbs in the same plane. To do this you need to have the same plane on the back of the handle the same as the limb just outside the fade. Best to rough shape your bow limb and leave about a 5" handle section (both billets).

You can either eyeball your work if you have the eye for it or do like me and use a level.

I first work the belly down to where it's in the same plane as the back of the limb, level close to the fade, and adjust the plane of the handle using said level. Once both handle and limb show level you know you're right. Do both the same way, and once spliced or joined for a takedown, both limbs will be in the same plane.

For a takedown, get your handle section very dry. Last thing you want to happen is your wood to shrink later as it season/age out.........Art

[Lee Slikkers]

This is good stuff...

[Pat B]

Do you tiller 1/8" positive at brace or at full draw?

[Aznboi3644]

just read this thread...reminds me of my hickory board stave I'm staring at.

One end has 4-5 fat rings and the other end has 10-15 thin rings.

[Roy from Pa]

Brace.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

After Art explained to me what a sister billet was in a past PM, I can completely understand why and how it works. I've never done a splice in the handle, but a sister billet bow is in my immediate near future.      

[Art B]

Once you get the hang of splicing you're never look at staves the same way ever again Semo.

Staves, with they often uneven working properties, can be more evenly matched by cutting into, swapping the lower stump end around, and spliced/joined back together.

Plus, the stump end creates problems with bending/curving unlike the top end. And since the stump end is stiffer/stronger/denser wood the bow will benefit by placing this section just outside the lower fade area where the bow receives the greater limb strain......Art

[TroutGuide]

This all makes sense but it is a little strange for me to think about bc I am so interested in finishing a true selfbow.  The best part of it though is that I can find lots of good 40" staves but there is always a problem with the trees about 45-60".  I will look at trees differently for sure.  Lots more usable wood out there!!!

[TroutGuide]

So should you atempt to chace the same ring? Should you split before drying or wait? Any cool all wood dovetail type takedown systems?  I have several new candidates for this that I just debarked and sealed.

[Art B]

I've only used the metal sleeve system, but there are others out there, a search will surely turn up more.

If you're referring to green Osage, and you want to dry as quick as possible, I would suggest that you rough shape the limbs close to bow dimensions and seal 'em all the way around really well. Put behind your bedroom door and forget about 'em for six months. You can dry 'em faster, but fresh made bows can turn into a disaster later on......Art