Author Topic: Be honest....it helps.... (Read 2501 times)

PEARL DRUMS · « **on:** March 08, 2011, 06:40:00 PM »

This is my first true osage self bow from stave. Its a 2# short of my target weight in this photo, and 4.5" short of my draw. I have plenty of tinker room. I have a slight twist that I am working out with heat. Let me know what you think of the tiller so far.The left limb is my bottom, its 1 1/2" shorter. Be nice Roy Boy!

Thanks for any and all input.

hardwaymike · « **Reply #1 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:44:00 PM »

Well, I don't really know. But thanks for the pics so far,lol. But really, She looks alot better today than she did on Saturday. Did you get a heat gun? Or did you come up with another source of heat? Keep us posted.

broketooth · « **Reply #2 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:45:00 PM »

your fades look different. the right limb in the pic looks like its bending more. is this an equal length limb bow? outer limbe on the right looks a little stiff. just what i see. ruddy

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #3 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:48:00 PM »

Left limb is 1.5" shorter Ruddy.

hardwaymike · « **Reply #4 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:52:00 PM »

After looking at it again, the right limb does look like it is bending more. But remember what I said about the crooked eyes.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:55:00 PM »

Maybe after a bow or two breaks and whops you between the eyes it will straighten 'em out Mike? HAHAHAHAHA!

NTD · « **Reply #6 on:** March 08, 2011, 06:59:00 PM »

Pearl Drums, Make a gizmo man!!! And get those inner limbs working.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:11:00 PM »

I use one Nate, love it! I purposely left the inner 12" somewhat alone. I am trying the mid limb curve tiller I read about it TBM this issue. He mentioned getting the mids moving good, then the inners and lastly the tips if they need it. I have plenty of room to go as far as draw wt and length.

NTD · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:24:00 PM »

Hmm, never read TBM so don't know about that article. I've never heard about that method either. Personally I always try to get my tiller picture as early as possible, hopefully at Brace Height, and then remove wood evenly from both limbs until I hit my preferred draw weight and length. It doesn't always work that way but that's what I shoot for.

Who wrote the article?

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:36:00 PM »

I've seen better kids bows on here Pearl:) LOL

The left limb looks real nice, the right limb is flat outside the fades. Never heard of the tiller method you speak of.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:42:00 PM »

They were probably mine too ol' fart! I see what your saying. It still amazes me how pics can be so much easier to read than standing there staring at the real deal.

SEMO_HUNTER · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:43:00 PM »

I see the same thing as Roy does Pearl, a little flat just outside the fades, but it's looking real good! Yours looks nearly identical to the one I'm working on. Left limb good, right limb needs a little nudge.

I'd like to get a tad bit more arc in my limbs like yours, but I've got a little ways to go yet. I haven't even pulled my to the target draw length yet to see what kind of poundage I got there.

I'd just fix that flat area on the right and you may be good to go?

4est trekker · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:48:00 PM »

Really great start, especially since it's your first stave bow. But I have to agree with NTD. I've also never heard of that method but wouldn't trust it. It doesn't make very much sense to me. I can understand not wanting to overstress the fades so that undue set isn't manifested at the tips. However, this method seems to be overstressing the inner third of the limb, which will lead to undue localized set...or worse. Getting the entire limb to work nicely together as early as possible is one of the fundamental keys to combating set.

The bulk of the work is being done by the near center of each limb in your picture (more tipward on the left limb, near dead center on the right limb). You're approaching a hinge in both of those locations, especially if you've got 4.5" to go. Catch the inner third of each limb up with the rest of the limb and you'll reach a fine tiller.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #13 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:48:00 PM »

My only concern is that flat spot is a knot I have avoided for the most part, its the only one on the whole bow. Its a nice piece of wood. I have a Mystic scraper so I could use the curved end to clean up around the knot some.

Stiks-n-Strings · « **Reply #14 on:** March 08, 2011, 07:51:00 PM »

even though your bottom limb is shorter you still need to keep your limbs bending evenly. The shorter limb will still be stiffer cause it's shorter.

If anything You might want the bottom moving an 1/8" less. right now it looks like it's moving about an inch less. Other than that looks good.

Stiks

snag · « **Reply #15 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:06:00 PM »

So if he needs to get the left limb to bend more to "catch up" to the right limb should he be taking a little off from the fade out to mid limb on the left limb?

Art B · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:14:00 PM »

Pearly, always include pics of the unbraced side/back of the bow so we can properly judge braced/drawn profile. Without that, we're just guessing at best.

Sorry guys, but you fellows really need to get rid of that grid system for these self bows. What you're seeing now all changes when you actually draw the bow by hand.......Art

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:18:00 PM »

I dunno stiks, I've made a lot of bows with a shorter lower limb and with a tiller of what I want, the lower limb lags anywhere from a half to an inch behind the top limb. But that's how I was taught.

vanillabear? · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:22:00 PM »

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:30:00 PM »

How's this Pearly Boy?

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Author Topic: Be honest....it helps.... (Read 2501 times)

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