Be honest....it helps....

[Roy from Pa]

Ok I'll bite ole timer.  

WHY?

[Pat B]

I use a symmetrical design on my bows because I can see good tiller better. While on the tree I pull from the center and keep the bottom limb a bit stiff(nothing measured). When I see a pic of myself at full draw the tiller looks even to me and I guess that is my hand compensating for the difference. I have a hard time understanding things that are too complicated so I do things that work for me and so far they work. Don't ask me why, I can't explain other than "just cause"!
  I got a lot from Deans book and his other writings but I have to read it over and over for it to sink. His writing style is hard for me to follow. Some of what he writes I don't go along with because I have had different results but that goes not only for Dean but other's writings too.

[Art B]

Some of you may say that all you want from your bows is for them to "feel" right and perform well. Nothing wrong with that.

But what about the bows you gift to friends. Or perhaps sell. Lots of trade bows going out I've noticed. Don't you want these bow to feel right and perform well for the new owners? Makes me wonder just how well those past trade bows fared.

I was gifted a nice Osage bow some years ago, and because at the time, I didn't understand proper grip per layout, limb timing and what not, I pulled the bow's tiller out in 6 shots. That's when it dawned on me that I was doing something wrong.

Hey Roy, it's all about the journey ol' Bud, you want me to carry you all the way! Art

[Roy from Pa]

No Art, I'll slow down and wait for ya to catch up son:)