Eclipse - and sharpening = nothing!!! HELP!

[BobW]

I've been trying to get these dang 2-blade heads sharp, and I don't even think they will go through warm butter on a July afternoon.  What the heck am I doing wrong?

I'm using a Lansky sharpener, marking out the edge, 25 degree angle, oil, coarse stone and pushing toward the blade edge.  Marker is removed.  Put on more marker, switch to medium diamond, and repeat.  Marker again, now fine diamond.  Things end up absolutely dull.

I've watched the How-To, and feel I am doing it just like it shows.

HELP!!!!!

[Jack Denbow]

Bob you may be putting too much presure on the stones and causing a burr. Run your finger from the ferrel toward the edge and see if you can feel a burr. If there is a burr you are putting too much pressure on the fine stone, try useing very lite pressure so you don't get the burr.
I use the lil shaver and try to get the burr then I take a couple of swipes on a ceramic stick to remove the burr and they are scary sharp.
If Lansky makes a ceramic stone for their sharpner you may try it to finish the edge.
I use the Catco system with diamond stones and ceramic stone for my knives and am very happy with the edge it leaves.
I hope this helps. The Eclipse heads are the best in my opinion.
Jack

[Bullfrog 1]

Bob, Eclipse are a little harder steel and one of the more difficult heads to sharpen.  BILL

[carbonarrow]

Man, I love my lansky.  Draw the hone backward not forward.

[aromakr]

Bob:
The Lansky is designed to hone the edge after it has be established. You need to file the edge first, using a "NEW" quality 6 or 8" Mill bastard file. When the edge is established then use your lansky. As was mentioned above the Eclipse is harder (2 rockwell points) it will take a little more effort, but well worth it.
Bob

[BobW]

carbonarrow,

please define "backward":  edge to back (into blade) or back to edge?

[Emmons]

Bob I think you might be looking at the how to I did.  I have never worked with the Eclipse heads, but I don´t think a little harder blade makes a difference in sharpening.  Only takes a little more work to get the angle set.  I sharpen O1 tool steel knifes I make that RC test at 60RC with my lansky.  Once you establish the edge with the coarse stone switch to the medium.  Using less pressure make 10 passes flip the head over and make 10 more.  Flip the head again and do 8 passes, flip and 8 more.  Keep going like this but reduce the number of pass by 2, at the same time reducing the pressure you apply.  Example 10 passes both sides, 8, 6, 4, 2.
Next do the same with the fine stone using very little pressure.  This should get the BH sharp.  I go one step farther by making one pass at a time with the fine stone and keep flipping the BH, use only the weight of the stone.  Another thing is to keep your stones clean.  The fine stone likes to clog up.  I wash my fine stone with really hot water and dish soap, dry well and reoil.  I hope this helps.

James

[carbonarrow]

BobW, Put the hone close to metal guide on the back broadhead then, pull it down  and tward the tip. Put some presure on. Then, put the medium hone and do the same. You will feel the difference.

[WESTBROOK]

I just start the edge with a file, then a medium, then fine arkansas stones. Just like your trying to shave off a piece of the stone. When it starts feeling sharp you have to realy lighten up on the pressure.

Eric

[ChuckC]

Be careful how you put together the hones...They all need to be about the same in terms of the depth you insert that rod, make sure the rods are straight.  All of this affects the angle of approach for the hones.  Do not press hard with the hones.  Nice and light.  Practice and you will eventually  get the procedure.  After that it is easy.  Also, you can do them at 20 degrees also, as long as the ferule does not get in the way.  

Another thing that I have done, that I think helps...   The Lansky comes with a straight edged clamp.  That means the angle you build across the broadhead changes, since it is held at an angle.  Since I had a second clamp, I took it to the grinder and changed the angle so that the broadhead, when clamped, has its blade (to be sharpened) more or less at a straight 90 degrees to the plane of the clamp.  That keeps the angle a bit more even.  

Last thing... look critically at the broadhead after you have it in the clamp.  Is it in evenly (look at ti from the front) so that the angle from one side is more or less the same as when you turn it over.  I have found that you can clamp them in and get a weird angle so that both sides are not even.
ChuckC

[Big Dave]

I only use a file to sharpen mine and they get real sharp. But of coarse you have to change the angle with very agressive strokes first then I lighten up with the file as it gets closer to sharp.