I made my first cane shafted arrow with Obsidian point

[Roy from Pa]

Semo, my cane arrows shoot as well as anything I've ever shot. Even carbon.

[Knawbone]

Cool stuff Semo, Good job,wish we had cane in NY.

[Pat B]

Another trick is to work on the nodes first, let them cool then work the innernodes(or vise versa).
  Bona, once I get the cane straight I will start at one end and work to the other end heating as I go. I sometimnes even scorch a little for camo effect. You have to be careful at the far end because any moisture will come out as steam and will scald you.
  Once you've "tempered" the shaft, lay it on a flat surface to cool and give it a few days before you stress it.

[b.glass]

I need to start working on some arrows. Is this cane you sent me ready to work Pat?

[razorsharptokill]

Looks deadly!

[Trumpkin the Dwarf]

I want some of those! That looks great.        How hard was it to attach the head? I have always wondered how you can get a flint tip to stay fixed solidly...But I haven't tried it for myself.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Thanks Dwarf, I don't think there's really any exact science to it. I just start a wrap around the shaft below the head then work across the head in "X's" then a couple wraps around the shaft, and repeat until it's secure. Then I soaked the B50 with super glue, some people use pine tar but I didn't have any of that.

The hardest part was cutting a notch in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in. That's kinda tricky to do without splitting the shaft, just have to go slow and easy.
I cut a groove with a fine tooth sawzall blade, then folded a piece of 180 grit around it to widen the groove out enough for the head to seat into.

[Pat B]

Bona, they should be good to go!
  I do like Semo does with a single saw cut then open it with sandpaper(actually emory cloth)folded over and over. I also use a thin bladed knife if needed. I like to use pitch glue when hafting stone or trade points. I can set and true the head before wrapping with sinew. I recheck after the sinew has dried and if it needs adjusting I heat the head slightly, make the correction and let it cool. Generally it is good to go. If not, I heat and readjust.

[ber643]

FWIW - Ah luvs Cane arras, especially for my primitive bows - although they also shoot fine out of my lam bows too, i just tend to "save" them for my wood bows. They are truly as forgiving an arrow as you'll find IMO.

I don't like to burn my hands so I usually use those inexpensive brown, cotton work gloves that are so common, when straightening. They help when I get forgetful - or stupid - LOL.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Yep Bernie, I found out real quick that cane will hold heat a lot longer than you ever thought it would. But I escaped without injury.....this time.

[NYArrow]

Nice job Semo! I noticed you mention they shoot well, do the nodes give in trouble during draw or release?

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Thanks man, and no they don't have any noticable effect that I could tell. I sanded them down smooth, not so much that it took away from the strength, but just enough to smooth them down some. I did try to line up my nock so the grooves in between the nodes were away from my bow.

I was surprised cause they actually shoot quite well. I think I will persue an entire set sometime in the future.

[Lee Slikkers]

That's a sweet looking arrow Semo.  Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread but what is the brass band near the point for?

I like your string keeper too, do you have any close up pics of that?  I need to make one or two.  Thanks!

[KellyG]

Roy,
Those are some girly arrows you made the only thing that would make them more so is if you painted them pink. You should just send me the whole lot of them to shoot at lizzards and such.

Semo cant waite to see more.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by Lee Slikkers:
That's a sweet looking arrow Semo.  Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread but what is the brass band near the point for?

I like your string keeper too, do you have any close up pics of that?  I need to make one or two.  Thanks!

I brought the "Tillering Critique" post back up to the top for ya Lee, look on page 5 for pics of the string keeper.

The brass band is a 45 shell casing with the base cut off and it's just a safety feature to keep the shaft from splitting up from the point. Mainly because you have to cut or file a groove in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in, then tie it into the shaft. The brass would keep the shaft from splitting all the way up and possibly ending up with a rock point through my hand.   :rolleyes:  
At least that's the idea anyway.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by KellyG:
Roy,
Those are some girly arrows you made the only thing that would make them more so is if you painted them pink. You should just send me the whole lot of them to shoot at lizzards and such.

Semo cant waite to see more.

Thanks Kelly, I think Roy should send those He Man arrows to me so I'll be able to see how the big boys do it. I'll need at least a half dozen to make sure I get it right next time.  

[Lee Slikkers]

Thanks Chris, I though maybe it was cut to length to add some weight to the tip but your explanation makes more sense.  I'll look at the other thread for the Keeper...

I just got done with a heat treatment on a HHB bow for the PA Trade to hopefully remove a bit of excessive prop twist on the limbs      


I just sat down on the couch with some nice leather scraps so I'll see if I can't whip up a decent looking Keeper.

Many thanks,

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Your welcome Lee, and send me your address when you get a chance so I can send you this caul pattern.

[fujimo]

"I want some of those! That looks great.  How hard was it to attach the head? I have always wondered how you can get a flint tip to stay fixed solidly...But I haven't tried it for myself."- trumpkin

"The hardest part was cutting a notch in the end of the cane shaft for the arrow head to sit in. That's kinda tricky to do without splitting the shaft, just have to go slow and easy."- semo


heres what i do fellas:
drill a hole through the shaft- the diameter matching the thickness of slot that you need, at the desired distance down the shaft, then cut with a juniour hacksaw down to the hole.

i made a clamp to hold the shafts in my vice, by taking two chunks of wood, clamping them together and then drilling an arrow shaft sized hole down the seam line, when you unclamp you have two pices each with a semi circle hollow in them-  drill a series of different size holes, and pack them with thin card as is required for different shaft sizes. if you screw/glue a small shelf on each top side( viewed while they are in the vice) they will stay in the vice as you change shafts- makes it a one handed operation and way easier.

you could also drill small cross holes through the wood( easier on the square chunks, than a round shaft) that will guide your small drill bit through- different size holes fore trade points, flint heads, or self nocks.
then cut a nice straight slot down from the top of the wood clamps, that will guide your first cut- that way everything is square and true.
clamp in a shaft, drill and cut the slot, one easy step, remove and widen the slot to fit the need.
g'luck
wayne

[StoneAK]

Nice Arrow I have been wanting to try that myself you may have just given me some inspiration. Thanks alot