Author Topic: The Traveling Caul Design **Clamp Problem Resolved*Final Pics, Project Complete**  (Read 3476 times)

Offline DVSHUNTER

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semo has the right idea. I cut my caul with a recipricating saw, so smooth isn't necessary. I don't use anything under my clamps either. I get the wood hot enough that it bends with very little tension. I'm probably just lucky, but I rarely crush anything, and even then like semo said, all that wood comes off.
"There is a natural mystic flowing through the air; if you listen carefully now you will hear." Bob Marley

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Thanks guys, sounds like I'm jumping the gun and looking for issues before they show up.
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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I cut the first board out with a jig saw and then cleaned the edges up with my drum sanders. Then I made it nice and smooth with the palm sander.

 

The second board I decided to try my 10" band saw and it made a nicer cut than the jig saw so I actually skipped the drum sander step and went straight to the palm sander.

 

 

Here's where I'm at right now and I'll build the back board for it tomorrow. Then I may call it done? The bench vise seems to work really well for holding the caul in place so I may just use that instead of legs to sit on top of my shaving beam?

 
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline StoneAK

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Semo,  What type of 2x8 did you buy?
"He never promised that the cross would not be heavy and the hill wouldn't be hard to climb"
"I don't want to gain the whole world, and lose my soul"

10 Year Active Army Disabled Vet.

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Quote
Originally posted by StoneAK:
Semo,  What type of 2x8 did you buy?
It's just building or framing grade lumber, not the expensive treated lumber. I figure this caul will always be inside my garage so it doesn't need to be treated. I'm not even going to put any finish on it. It will probably end up with oil from heat treating and glue and such all over it in time anyway as I put it to use. I'm working on the back stop right now and then it will be complete. At least until I start using it and need any modifications on it here and there. Won't know until I incorporate it into my bow builidng process.

The worst part about the whole thing is clamps, they are expensive as hell and the clamps I have on hand aren't big enough for it. I've got to come up with a reasonable alternative for the clamping process because I can't afford to run out and buy all new clamps.
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline StoneAK

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I know what you mean about the cost of clamps they can be costly.
"He never promised that the cross would not be heavy and the hill wouldn't be hard to climb"
"I don't want to gain the whole world, and lose my soul"

10 Year Active Army Disabled Vet.

Offline bowhntineverythingnh03743

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Hey Semo... that caul looks great. Did you get the measurments somewhere to make it or did you come up with it on your own. I have been looking into making a caul but there isn't anywhere I can find any measurments. Thanks for the help

Offline razorback

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Semo,
Drill a whole bunch of 1/2-3/4" holes down the length of it and make a trip to the local bike store and grab all the old bike tubes you can get. Cut them into strips and weave them tightly over the top to clamp it down. Should be able to get heaps of tubes at the moment with everyone getting their bikes tuned up for this years riding season. A whole bunch cheaper than clamps.
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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That would work if I was gluing Razorback, but this caul will be used for heat treating mainly. I'm afraid the tubes would melt. I think I can build my own clamps myself since I'm actually a welder/fabricator by trade, I just need to get some materials and more welding wire. I believe that route would be cheaper than buying them and the design I plan to build would be much more efficent than your everyday C clamps.

Justin- It's DVSHunter's original caul design that I made a few small modifications on, but basically the same caul. Go back to page 1 and read from the beginning and you'll get the jist of what's happened up to this point.

Here's the finished pics of my caul.

First laying out the backstop to have a 1 1/2" overhang on top for using C clamps to pull out camber.
 
 

Next I cut it out using my small 10" band saw, which is a pain, but as long as I go slow it gets the job done.

 

Next I clean up my saw marks with a file.

 
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Now I attach the back stop and recheck my work to make sure everything came out the way I wanted it to.

 

 

Then I use 3 1/2" wood screw to attach the backstop and do some final sanding with the palm sander to get all the edges nice and purty.
I'm calling it done at this point and will try to figure out my clamp set up next.
Thanks for following along on my caul build. If anybody has any questions, feel free to fire away and I'll do my best to answer them.

 

 
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Chris, got the Caul Pattern in the mail today...I'm stoked!  I'll get mine cranked out over the weekend.

One thing I did with a basic reflex shaped Caul was cut the two 2"x8" shape and then drop down 2" and cut the same shape/line so you can use smaller clamps and so they have a clamping surface which parallels the shape.  I did a little photo "edit" on your pic to show where I plan on removing the wood prior to screwing it to the back/support board.

     

Thanks again~
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Oh ok, I see what you mean. Just don't go too thin on the curve or it might crack on ya. When you get to putting pressure on it there can be quite a bit of stress there and pine has never been known for it's strength under pressure.

I'm going to go with a modified clamp design that I will make myself when I can get the material to build them.

This will give you an idea of what I have in mind.
I figure probably one of these every 4 - 5 inches or so? Depending on how well it's holding the bow blank down, may need more or less?
Also plan on making them with a pin that runs completely through the caul to prevent slippage.

 
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Dangit...your idea is a way better system.  I like those clamps.  I imagine they are a bit more coin that a regular C clamp though...I'll have to keep my eye open for those.

Thanks!
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Quote
Originally posted by Lee Slikkers:
Dangit...your idea is a way better system.  I like those clamps.  I imagine they are a bit more coin that a regular C clamp though...I'll have to keep my eye open for those.

Thanks!
You do realize that I just drew those.....right?   :rolleyes:  

You can buy factory made ones cause I've seen them in use by some of the bowyers here, I know Dick from Seattle uses them. I plan to build my own the way I want them to be. I think I can gather up the materials way cheaper than buying them anyway.
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline Lee Slikkers

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yup, seen those 3 point style clamps in all the wood working mags, not sure if I've seen them on the shelf anywhere locally...

I might just got with the hole-saw idea every so many inches.
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline Ranger44

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Lee,  I saw some of those clamps at Menards this week.  I didn't look real closely so I'm not sure how big they were or the price.  I was getting some el-cheapo C-clamps and they were in a bin next to them.  There may be more than one size too.

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Thanks for the heads up Ranger.  We have pretty large and fairly new Menard's here in town too, sounds like I'll have to check them out and see if they have some.  I need about 6 more splitting wedges too since I only own 1 and a little ol' 5lb sledge...a guy from work just gave me free range on a huge, old growth row of Osage and told me to help myself whenever I want    :eek:

So I think I'll need a few more wedges and a real sledge or I'll be regretting the amount of extra work once the trees are on the ground.
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Lee- All I use is 2 wedges, a small hatchet, a small hand held sized sledge, and a large sledge hammer. If it gets too big for that I use the chainsaw to help it along. 3 wedges instead of 2 might come in handy on the bigger stuff, but I've managed to get by with just 2 so far.

Good luck man, take full advantage of it while you can. Remember to get lots of pics!
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline CaptainJ

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Wow Lee, sounds like you struck gold there!
Plenty of 'free' Osage and you can cancel your gym membership!

I just have two wedges and leap frog them down the log. It works great and a $10 each buying them in half dozen lots will hurt your wallet.
I'd definitely find a heavier sledge though!

CJ

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Thanks for the advice on the wedges guys.  For the smaller diameter stuff (10") I hauled and split a month earlier I used the one steel wedge and some leftover Red Oak "splits" that worked OK...I guess I assumed that the larger, more mature trees would be a real bugger (since the 10" one was a handful for me) Now that I think about it, I have access to some scrap flat stock steel that I could grind a thin edge on and I bet those would work out just fine.  My Dad has a "real" sledge so I could grab that for the day too.

Anyway, I think I've de-railed this topic enough by now...so back to your regularly scheduled program    :coffee:
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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