Most preferred take-down system for longbows?

[Lee Robinson .]

I am planning on developing a take down longbow over the summer months. I would like to see some feedback on the different methods (positives and negatives) of the various types. Some "build a longs" with the different systems would be nice too before testing them myself. I am leaning towards a 2 piece, but I am not sold on the henge systems or the pipe sleeve systems. The bow bolt seems interesting, but I am concerned about its integrity and alignment. I am also interesting in a "one limb bolt" system where the bottom limb comes off the riser with about 1/3rd of the riser with it...immediately below the grip. Although the last type will produce assymetrical 2 piece but it would seem to be the strongest type with the best alignment as it would go on and off just like a limb on a 3 piece takedown bow.

[Lee Robinson .]

My current plan is something like what stotler has done but making it a 2 piece instead of a 3 piece. It seems to me, this would be the most durable and provide for the best alignment...but as I mentioned above, I would like to see some build alongs on take downs.

 

[hogdancer]

I had a bow bolt give way on me, it was exciting !
by far the best I have seen is the locket socket that Black Widow uses, I think Big Jim uses it also.

[Ricker]

I second the composite socket.  It also lends itself to easily form any grip desired.
Big Jim, Cari-bow, Jack Harrison and Steve Turay make bows that way to name a few.

[PZee]

I like the look of the system Big Jim uses. I found a build along on another site, but can't seem to locate it now. Will continue to search, I'll post the link if I find it...

[Dick in Seattle]

Have a great deal of info on the hinge system on my site, including build alongs...

 www.dickwightman.com     Click on Archery Activities... then on Using the Connexion Hinge

[jsweka]

I don't own a takedown longbow and never tried to make one, but if I ever were to own/build one, I would go for a system whereby you can't tell it's a takedown when it's together.
So I guess I'd go for the type hogdance and chupa mention above.

[Lee Robinson .]

Dick,

I saw your site on the henge system. Thanks for the information. Have you noticed any of the "clacking" I have heard some people experiencing? Also, please check out my questions below. Thanks.

Everyone else,

My mentor, Gary Sentman, never used any of the take-down systems, so I am researching this one on my own. Any help offered is appreciated. Whatever system I go with it must be...

1. Simple design for durability and trouble free use.
2. have obvious strength for long term durability
3. maintain good alignment over time
4. remain silent during the shot.

I have heard of the bow bolts failing. I know a lot of the pipe sleeve types often have a wobble to them...the only one I ever saw that didn't was so tight that it was VERY HARD to get apart.

The fear I have with the henge is "clack" (opening and closing and making sound when the bow is shot). Maybe they don't all do that, but I have heard some negatives in that regard. I am not familiar with it myself...but it looks simple which I like. I do have some concerns about hiding it somewhat. Can it be covered with leather and still be operational?

The standard "take down" method with limb bolts obviously isn't as clean or attractive, but it seems to be the most proven in terms of durability...and that I like.

This composite wedge thing though I must say looks nice. Again though, take downs are NOT something I spent much time with...so that is why I was asking. Any feedback on that system would be appreciated. How well are they holding up? Are they tight and secure? Do they make any noise? Do they align well?

Whichever system I use, I will only assemble the system on an unfinished bow that doesn't yet have the limbs completed because I want to be SURE good alignment is obtained after the system is installed.

[Robertfishes]

I don't own this bow..I downloaded this pic, its a CheckMate. looks interesting.. one bolt,one pin  

[Lee Robinson .]

I am thinking something like that, but more like the Stotler pictured above. I would stay lower in the riser...more below the grip. I wouldn't take it up into the shelf/sight window for sure as that is the weak link of the bow's riser.

[Walt Francis]

Like others, I prefer the socket type system that Black widow uses.  That being said, I have a Tolke whip with the bow-bolt and a Schafer longbow with the Robertson’s conexion hinge and they both work great.  Dave recessed the hinge and put overlays over it, so there is only a small piece of the hinge showing.  I like Dave’s installation much better then the one on my Robertson Peregrine because you cannot feel the hinge and it allows wide range of grip styles.  Another type of takedown that I haven’t seen mentioned is the one Duane Jessup at Thunderhorn Archery developed, it splits the handle down the center  of the grip, from front to back, and is held together with two bolts that can be covered with a roll up grip if desired.  It is a slick system.

[clayton95]

I really like that idea.  What kind of material are you thinking would work best for the center of the bow?

[Lovec]

I have a longbow that is a sleeve type takedown.  I like it.  When it is together you don't notice that it is a takedown.  The only thing I have noticed is a "creak" the first time you draw it after putting it back together.  After that it works great.  It does limit the size and shape of the handle.

[AkDan]

my cruader takedown cracked!  Another bowyer told me about this being a problem and low and behold mind did just the same.  Sweet shooting bow and loved the td system!  But even with all the phenolic she still split.

[Lee Robinson .]

AkDan, which system did you use that broke?

Clayton95, who are you talking to? If me, I would use my standard riser materials. If someone else, my apologies for the interruption.

[Dick in Seattle]

Lee...   Have not heard any clacking.  I know that some folks put a piece of micarta or glass in the gap.  I use a thin piece of leather.  Whether this, or the fact that I shoot lighter weight than most is the reason for the quiet, I can't say.  Oh, one other thought just occurred...  I do the cutting with a very fine Japanese draw saw, so my gap is extremely thin.  I know others who use much wider blade saws... one guy told me he used a chop saw!  Maybe a wider gap is more likely to clack?

[Robertfishes]

I had a nice Black Widow PSR with the lockit sockit TD system,no problems with it and it looked great

[PV]

Here's a couple I've built. My take on it is the bow bolt is a great system if the bow can handle it. You will not break the bolt but the bow can fail. With the locket socket you have no tools or parts to lose  
 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I think the 3 piece TD is the best way to go all the way around. you can do blind mounted limbs to give the illusion of a one piece like this one. and only have a couple bolts showing on the back of the belly ramps.

   

   

   

   

[Beanbag]

Anyone come up with info on the locket socket construction.Some pics of both ends would show alot towards retro fittng my Savanna. I got the bevel lock in last week,sturdy,looks like it would work well, bit of work to get in though.I'm a little concerned with keeping things aligned.Not too much room for error. I think the socket would be better, not a mechanical connection.Probably a bit easier to keep aligned.Tried to test drive a widow a while back so I could see up close but they didn't have any at the time. Thanks guys Jim G