Author Topic: Ironwood limb(stave)  (Read 345 times)

Offline John E.

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Ironwood limb(stave)
« on: March 25, 2011, 03:03:00 PM »
I need guidance. Please.  I drying an ironwood (hophornbeam) limb (intact not split) in a warm, ventilated room for a year. It is app. 5"X3" of usable limb with a row of 5 "pinknots" on one side.  It has taken a set as it has dried, with the line of knots on the inside of the curve.  I am afraid that the knots will weaken under compression and additionally, the set(curve) is too acute anyway. Ideally I would like to reverse the bend in the limb, putting the knots on the outside of the curve and make that the back of the bow. Who can tell me the best way to do this?  Dry heat? Steam?  Build a jig? Rough it out first? Its a pretty thick llimb of ironwood (4" to 5" diameter) so it will resist strongly.  Thanks for all help.  Its a great site.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Ironwood limb(stave)
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2011, 03:46:00 PM »
If they are on the inside of the curve that would be the back of your reflexed bow? They wouldnt experinece any compression there, only tension.

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Ironwood limb(stave)
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2011, 04:13:00 PM »
I would split the limb so that 1 half is reflexed and one is deflexed.  Rough out bows from both halves.  Leave the tips and handles full width and thin the workign limbs to 5/8" all the way across and for the full length of the limbs.  No thick or thin spots.  Take your time and do it right.

Then coat with shellac and let it dry for 1 month in a coolish spot and then 1 month in your warm room.  It should be pretty dry by then.  I suspect the reflex will get greater and the deflex will get less.  Then if you have too much reflex, you can decide how best to correct it.

Alternatively, you could stema the reflexed side and then strap it to a caul that is about the shape you want.  Let it dry that way and see what you end up with.
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Offline John E.

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Re: Ironwood limb(stave)
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2011, 10:17:00 AM »
Great advice!  Thanks for the quick responses.  One more question:  What's the best way to split Hophornbeam?  I'm guessing that I could cut  a kerf (lengthwise) and then use some wedges, working from end to end to split it?  I'm not sure how intertwined the grain is in this wood, but it is a bear to cut!
Thanks again for the help.  I really appreciate the generosity of Trad people in your willingness to help new guys!

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