Author Topic: Lets Talk Tillering Strings  (Read 686 times)

Offline Ranger44

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2011, 02:44:00 PM »
Lee,  I thought just like you until recently,  There was a recent thread where several guys(even the very experienced) said that they tiller with the bow strung.

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #21 on: April 16, 2011, 02:55:00 PM »
No kidding?  Well I had thought about doing that (seemed to make sense) but I assumed it was kinda like "cheating"    :nono:

I'd love to hear some opinions on this topic as it would save a guy a fair amount of time with all the stringing, unstringing, scraping, stringing, looking...repeat at infinium.  LOL
~ Lee

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"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
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Offline John Cooper

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #22 on: April 18, 2011, 01:23:00 AM »
Lee, I hope I didn't make your tillering string too short for ya!  When I'm done floor tillering, I'll bring it up to brace height using the tillering string with a bowyer's knot equal to the length of the bow NTN.  Then I'll move the knot up a few inches to a low brace height to get a closer picture of which side the string is tracking.  At that point, I'll move the knot up further to full brace height and finish it up to full draw and shoot it in.  I usually only make a new string for a bow once I get the final finish on it.

As to unstringing, I'm moving over to the camp of not unstringing between scrapings.  Occasionally, I'll unstring so I can get in closer to the tips or check how much set I'm getting.  The tillering strings usually last me 2 or 3 bows with all the nicks I give them with rasps and scrapers.

John

Offline JSMOFFITT03

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #23 on: April 18, 2011, 07:52:00 AM »
I made my first string this weekend...  Turned out ok. It was a 2-bundle flemish string.  I cant tell you how many times i watched videos on youtube to figure it out...  im not sure what i was doing wrong at first.  I was using the reverse twist but as soon as i put some preassure on it it would come unravled....

Does any one know were i can get some more tips? (threads)

Or whats recommended resource for a book/video?....

Offline **DONOTDELETE**

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #24 on: April 18, 2011, 10:42:00 AM »
I'm curious if anyone has tried using a prusik knot or a Klemheist Knot on a work string before?

when i played with the timber hitch a lot my string got pretty ragged in short order...

check out these knots...

 http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Offline frank bullitt

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #25 on: April 18, 2011, 06:52:00 PM »
Kirk, that is why I use the High performance  string materials! Highly abrasive resistant!

It will take alot of hits from a rasp and scraper!

 The timber hitch/bowyers knot, has always worked well and is easily adjusted.

Make sure too, to pre-stretch the string before tillering.

If you want to spend the money, make one from Halo, or Crown serving! Tough enough, to last for alot of bows!  :bigsmyl:

Offline Lee Slikkers

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #26 on: April 18, 2011, 08:07:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by John Cooper:
Lee, I hope I didn't make your tillering string too short for ya!  

As to unstringing, I'm moving over to the camp of not unstringing between scrapings.  

John
Hey John, how's things?  Nope, the string is plenty good, I just need to learn to make my own (should have stayed and watched you make mine at the Kzoo show but my boys were so amped up to check things out I couldn't slow em down...)

We need to get together again sometime soon.
~ Lee

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: 'What good is it?"
— Aldo Leopold
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Offline Dick in Seattle

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Re: Lets Talk Tillering Strings
« Reply #27 on: April 19, 2011, 01:16:00 AM »
I'm another that uses a string with two big leather cups.  I have a running knot in one end and when I have the limbs trimmed, but no nocks in, I adjust the string to close to what I want as a string length.  I have woodworker's holes in my bench and set two pegs in them to brace the bow against and put the cups on the ends of the limbs.  I'm then able to string it, put it on the tiller board and, if all looks good, get a draw weight.  At that point I can decide whether to further grind the limb sides, maybe decide whether I want the nocks a bit further down the limbs to increase weight, or whatever.  It works well for me.
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

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