Tillering out to draw length

[bigcountry]

How do you guys tiller out to a draw length?  Do you draw back by hand and note where material needs to be removed?  Or do you draw back full on a tiller stick and use a eric kizmo?

I myself have been going back to 20" on a tiller stick.  No more.  And I use a gizmo up to 20", then I draw back and take pictures.  

I mean does anyone pull back a full 28 or 29" and take the time to run a gizmo over the belly???

[don s]

if you pull the bow back to full draw while still in the tillering process, chances are you are overdrawing the bow past your target weight and risking set at the very least. i myself will draw only to my target weight. if tiller is off by a lot, i won't need the gizmo, i can see it. if tiller is close, then i'll use it. don

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Normally I'm already even on my tiller by the time I get to my draw length and don't need the gizmo anymore. I check my draw wt. periodically and when I'm within 5# I'm drawing my bow to my draw length on the board so I can look at it. Rarely is anyone around to take my pic at full draw so I have to rely on what I see on the board.

It has helped me to draw the bow on the board, then take a pic and study it on my computer. I have seen things while looking at the pics that I can't see with my naked eye, plus the edit feature where I can add straight lines, circles, ect. really helps show the problem areas. Draw a straight line on the pic from tip to tip on the bow, then another straight line across the bow about half way up between the string and the handle, then one more line vertically dead center of the bow, this will really help be able to see just how close you are or aren't.
That has really helped me tremendously.

Like this
 

And this
Center line is a little off on this pic but you can get the idea
 

[George Tsoukalas]

There are buildalongs on my site. Jawge

[bigcountry]

Ok, so what I am doing is probably correct?  I just don't like holding any selfbow at tension past 20-22".

[George Tsoukalas]

I don't either, big, which is why I use a rope and pulley. Forgot to post my site.
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
Jawge

[bigcountry]

Thanks George,  I have been all thru your site when I started.  

I just hear people say, "I tillered out to 29" or 30".  When I am trying to figure out if they actually used the gizmo out to there, or just drew on a tiller board and took a picture and stayed under wieght.

[Pat B]

"Tillering it out to..." is getting the limbs to bend evenly and together. Generally once you have a bow well tillered out to 20" to 22" it is probably good out to the draw length except for draw weight. It might take a little tweeking to get it just right but there shouldn't be any major changes that have to be made.

[bigcountry]

Thanks Pat.  I talked to a guy the other day who said he put his on a tiller stick out to X draw length (staying under desired wieght) and used the gizmo.  I was rather shocked.  Not sure I want to have a 60lb bow held at full draw for 2min.  

here's where I am at.  I have a bow that is what I consider excellent tiller (by picture) at my short draw of 27".  Its 55-57lbs at 27".  So I have to reduce it.  So I figure now is the time to reduce but to get the tiller dead on.

[Pat B]

You have to reduce the weight or length?   For the weight make a few full length scrapes, exercise it and check the weight. Again as needed.
  I normally tiller by eye. When I have a bow with twisted limbs or some other malady so I can't see good tiller I will use a gizmo. That is the only time I use a tiller stick and get-er-done ASAP. I don't like holding a wood bow at any draw length for long.

[bigcountry]

So, here I am at 27 draw.  I use a clothspin to keep me from drawing anymore than 27".  So I am not stretched out.  

To me, it looks good.  But if I can improve on the tiller to get out to 28.5", I figure now is the time.  

 

[Aznboi3644]

I draw by hand or use the oak tree out front and use a bracket on it to hold the string while I pull down on the bow handle...or I use the mirror in my living room.

Don't have a tiller stick or tree.  Or I'll have friends draw the bow and i'll look for where its stiff.

[Pat B]

Your top limb looks a bit stiffer than the bottom. Also you could get a little more bend out near the tips. These things should get you out to 28 1/2".

[bigcountry]

Ok, just got her to 1/4 positive tiller.  So she is bending more on top.  Also down to 57lbs at 27.5".  

I will take another picture and see if I can get the tips moving.  Little hesitate to get top 6" moving, because I took out a huge bend with heat there.  But she does have some hand shock, so I wouldn't mind removing some material from the tips.

[Pat B]

Remove wood from the sides of the tips. That will reduce physical weight without reducing the strength of the tips.

[bigcountry]

Almost there.  Here she is at 27.5 and 55lbs.  Almost got that top tip moving.  Taking off alot of material

 

[Pat B]

Put a final shape on your tips and shoot it. It may correct itself or you could always scrape a little more if necessary.
  I think the tiller looks very good. NAIL IT!!!

[bigcountry]

I have short shot it about 100-200 times.  Very fast. (for my bows)

But I was 1/2" from bow center, and I am having to use a 40lb cedar to get to shoot good.  So I moved the rest (shooting off the finger to 3/8 from center.  Started being more forgiving.  Thanks for the advise and time.

[Pat B]

You can use heavier spined arrows just cut the shafts long. 5# per inch decrease in spine for each inch over 28".

[Shakes.602]

I was going to ask how you determined Exactly Where the Arrow Rest goes?? Measured from Center of handle, or just grab the handle and see what it looks like?? Then kinda "Wing" it from there?