Osage Flatbow Blank Question

[Chromebuck]

New to building and just received this osage blank in the mail.  It appears to have lots of character, but wondering if this is acceptable and/or fixable?  Steam?  

   

   
Is this considered a good stave/blank?  It has been started and obviously the grain followed, but the amount of natural bend in the belly concerns me.  Any experienced opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

~CB

[PEARL DRUMS]

Get your steaming tools and a caul out! That bugger goes all over! It will make a bow Im sure, your going to learn alot in the process. To answer your question, its a blank for somebody that has made lots of bows in my opinion. You have to straighten that on both axis. Take your time and learn all you can from others who have done it. A straighter blank may have been a better one to start with, but hey jumping in feet first is always fun!

[Chromebuck]

How long would I place it under steam before reshaping?  Would it have to be placed on a form of some type to dry afterwards?  Thanks.  ~CB

[PEARL DRUMS]

It will take several sessions of steaming and clamping in a caul to get the tips lined up through the handle and to add some relex, or at least straighten it. I would HIGHLY suggest you get a copy of the Traditional Bowyers Bible volume I. They dont cost much and you will find yourself referencing it very often as you go.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I agree with Pearl... I have all four books of the TBB and have learned a ton from them. Another great tool would be Gary Davis's The Rattlestick DVD which shows you a great deal with building the osage bow.

I am new to the bow building and have learned a bunch from this site and primitive archer.

Check out my post... First Osage Bow... tip overlays
The guys in here have been amazing    and I couldn't have done all that I have alone. GOOD LUCK!!!  

[Chromebuck]

Thanks for the comments guuys.  I have access to the entire set of Bowyers Bibles.  Will have to borrow volume 1 again.  Building a caul doesn't seem too difficult, but finding time is the challenge.  We are in breakup in Alaska now and things tend to really speed up through summer.  Is there any prefered way of storing this blank until fall?  ~CB

[Lee Slikkers]

3 x what Pearl said...

besides the TBB1-4 and the "Rattlestick" DVD I would also add Paul Comstock's "The Bent Stick".  I picked up all the above and have already referenced them all more times than I can count.

That stave is do-able but it will be a heady task requiring lots of thought and patience.  Good luck and post your progress.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I myself would keep the snake in the limb, those are rare to find and would look awesome with some snake skins on it. The severe dip can be removed with steam if it's still a bit green or if it's more dry then a heat gun is in order. Read the section on wood bending in the BB volume I I'm thinking? It's been awhile.

A caul would work 2 fold, you can take out the deflex dip and add some R/D to it in the shape that you want, plus you can push or pull the handle to get the tips to line up. I'd suggest building one, I've only got a half day in mine and about $15 bucks, that would be your best option. The wood will go where you want it to, but like previously stated it may take several heating/bending sessions to get it where you want it. That natural snake is awsome I'd suggest not trying to remove that. As long as your tips line up and you can get a string from tip to tip and run through the center of the handle your good to go and it will shoot just fine. Then throw some nice diamond backs on it and marvel at your creation.

As far as storage goes, just make sure it's got a good coat of sealer on it and you can let it sit for a year if you want to. Put it in the corner of your bedroom out of harms way and direct sunlight/heat and let it age gracefully.

Depending on how long you let it sit, steam won't be your best option but a heat gun would work just fine.

PatB can offer some very good advice on this stave, he's seen a few of these in his days and probably made some awesome bows out of them.
ArtB, Eric, Roy, John, and a few others have too I'm sure.
They will be along shortly to offer their wisdom.    

Good Luck!

[Chromebuck]

I've now done some research on building a caul and I think you guys are right.  It will make a great skinned bow, but will likely take quite a while to get tips linned up.  Can you explain push or pull of the handle?

~CB

[Pat B]

Have you built a wood bow before? If not, set this aside and get a stave or appropriate board and learn to tiller. Once you have that under your belt you can start on the "straightening" aspects of building wood bows.
  I'd say this stave will make a bow but it needs some attention and manipulation before hand.
  Did you buy this as a bow stave without being informed about it's "character"?

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I agree with Pat, maybe you should start with something less challenging and work your way into this one.

But if you would still like to build yourself a caul, here's a Build Along that I just did on mine. There are many patterns floating around out there, and if you need to get your hands on one just let me know. Send me a PM with your address and I'll make you a copy of mine.
I moved this thread back to the top for ya.
 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=005769

You can see that the higher board on the back of the caul can be used with large C clamps to "Pull" the handle section toward the backstop while adding heat to line up the tips. Simply flip the bow blank around to pull it the other direction. Simple.

[Dean Marlow]

Looks like a good piece of Osage but will be quite a challenge. A-lot of things to correct for sure. Since this is your first I would get a hold of the outfit you bought it from and see if they got something that would be easier to work with since you just starting. Not that you can't do it but I would want something with a few less corrections for my first.Dean

[John Scifres]

Whoopdedoo (technical term for up-and-down) bends like that one can be tough to correct but it is doable for sure.  I'd get it much thinner, maybe 1/2" or so and then slowly heat it with a heat gun and clamp it your form, tightening the clamps a little at a time until it is straightish.  Definitely don't "correct" the snake (side-to-side) though.  Leave it in.  Character is cool.

[Chromebuck]

Hey guys thanks for all the comments.  I'm a bit out of most time zones to actively participate in these discussions, but I read and appreciate all replies.

This not my first build, but my first build alone...So yes and no.  I did the foolish move of buying this off a well known auction site and after the purchase I realized it was coming from Hungary...A bit dissapointed with the deep bend but the snakey character was pure luck! I'm not afraid...

I'm told the stave is still quite wet and that I need to keep it in a warm dry place when not working it.

So in summary from your suggestions (bottom up)this is what I'm thinking(my wife loves when I paraphrase).

1. Work the thickness down to 1/2" before steaming or heating.

2. I'm not going through shipping this back to Hungary.  I'll give it a go...What the heck!

3. I think I get the push and pull on the handle now.  What I would ask though is how long do you let the bow setup in new position before removing clamps?  Depends right?

4. As Pearl Drums suggest there is straightening required on two axis'.  Procedurally, what axis should be first?  X- being the horizontal and Y- being the vertical?

Appreciate all your help.  I will post pics as I get going on the caul and get the stave affixed to it.

Again thanks.

~CB

[Pat B]

I would start with the reflexed tip and make it flat like the other limb. Leave the snakey limb alone. After first bracing you will be able to see what you need to do to get the string to track well.
  Being that the wood is still slightly wet you can steam it to straighten. The steam will actually help to dry the wood. Be sure to seal the back well. If you steam it use shellac on the back. It can take the moisture and heat but will help prevent drying checks on the back.

[John Scifres]

Let the bow cool and then you can remove it from the form.  Use steam on wet wood.  Why is someone in Hungary selling osage???  Weird.

I have some nice staves ready to make into blanks if you want soemthing seasoned to work on while you wait.  No whoopdedoos  

  Hedgerow Selfbows

[Chromebuck]

The stave came with plenty shellac on back.  I will start by trying to get reflexed limb straight.  Newbie question!  What is the best way to apply steam?  I'm thinking a large pot boiling water tip over it covered in foil?

John, Is Osage indigenous to our continent only?  Are you saying seller has a US source and is selling back to US?  Nice site by the way.  I wish I had you pick me out a good starter stave originally.  Idle time will get you either in trouble or broke.

Thanks again,

~CB

[PEARL DRUMS]

Osage was brought over to the states to contain animals and keep predators out. Im not sure where it originated.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

History says they came from the Red River Valley in Southern Oklahoma and Northern Texas. Don't know if that's as far back as they go, or if they were transplanted there from somewhere else before they arrived in S.OK or N.TX ???

Here.......I found more and this is about all I could find on it's origins???


"HistoryThe earliest account of the tree was given by William Dunbar, a Scottish explorer, in his narrative of a journey made in 1804 from St. Catherine's Landing on the Mississippi River to the Ouachita River.[4] It was a curiosity when Meriwether Lewis sent some slips and cuttings to President Jefferson in March 1804. The samples, donated by "Mr. Peter Choteau, who resided the greater portion of his time for many years with the Osage Nation" according to Lewis's letter, didn't take, but later the thorny Osage-orange was widely naturalized throughout the U.S.[12] In 1810, Bradbury relates that he found two trees growing in the garden of Pierre Chouteau, one of the first settlers of St. Louis (apparently "Peter Choteau").[4]

The trees acquired the name bois d'arc, or "bow-wood", from early French settlers who observed the wood being used for war clubs and bow-making by Native Americans.[4] Meriwether Lewis was told that the people of the Osage Nation "esteem the wood of this tree for the making of their bows, that they travel many hundred miles in quest of it." Many modern bowyers assert the wood of the Osage-orange is superior even to English Yew for this purpose, though this opinion is by no means unanimous. The trees are also known as "bodark" or "bodarc" trees, most likely originating from a corruption of "bois d'arc." The Comanches also used this wood for their bows.[13] It was popular with them because it is strong, flexible and durable. This tree was common along river bottoms of the Comanchería."

[John Scifres]

Just seems weird.  Don't know what I don't know about it