why is one limb longer??

[oneraindog]

in the bowyers bible in the chapter about the yew LB the author describes making the top limb one inch longer by measuring one inch from the center point of the splice to find the "center" of the bow. the nocks will be equal distance from this point thus making one limb longer. this will "enable you to properly tiller the bow"
what?
why?
what if there is no splice?

im always confused why people recommend doing something in a book but dont go on to tell you why that is the way to do it.      

[PEARL DRUMS]

Its an opinion, not a neccesity. The more you learn the more you will find that the Bowyers Bibles have LOTS of opinions mixed in with hard facts.

[oneraindog]

i thought that might be the case

but im still wondering WHY? what is the intended purpose and rationale??

[PEARL DRUMS]

Balance and feel during the draw. If you shoot 3 under a shorter bottom limb COULD feel funny. If you shoot split it COULD feel better I suppose. I shoot 3 under and build equal legnth limbs as well as an equal tiller on all my bent chunks of tree.

[Osagetree]

I've tried both and both get the job done. I am like Chris though in regards to even length and tiller.

Just can't see our Native American's worrying about limb length or positive tiller... They hit the mark when it counted & long before we met and befriended Ishi. I don't know about the English. Maybe, the asians were fiddling around with such back then.

I like primitive, which in my mind is a simple design of all wood. Like in the Cowboy & Indian movies we watched as kids. I know the picture in my mind is distorted & mostly due to Hollywood but that was the environment I was raised in. As a child, that is what got me interested in archery and I can't see them worrying about 1/8" positve tiller or one limb longer than the other,,,, unless by chance or mistake.....

Someone here once said, "I alway's use K.I.S.S. when making a selfbow".

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Yep, I agree with Pearl and Osagetree on all accounts. I go to dead center from tip to tip (both limbs equal in length) and put my arrow pass about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" above center. Maybe I'm effectively shortening one limb by doing that and not doing it conciously? All I know is that it works. I also don't try to fight positive tillers or tiller for my 2 under style of shooting, but then maybe I should?

I kind of feel like by putting the arrow 1 1/4" above center (almost exactly 2 fingers worth) then shooting with 2 fingers under in effect creating a positive tiller on the bottom limb, may be the perfect balance for my bows?
Whos to say.

Just use what works for you and if it's working, keep doing it.

[oneraindog]

oooooookay! this makes sense. thank you guys. i actually lose sleep trying to figure out why and why didnt they explain it better!
now i feel dumb because that seems self evident.

how long do you guys make your grip section to allow for the arrow rest or sight window or whatever
?

[Don Drake]

I use Al Herrin's design. He measures the center of the bow from tip to tip and then ENDS the fades four inches above and below center for an 8" non-bending section.  The arrow rest is 1.25" above center and the upper fade is longer than the lower fade, making the bending portion of the limbs the same length.

On my posts under making my fourth bow in the bowyer's forum, I have pictures of the design drawn on my current project stave.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Dont over complicate it in your mind, its 95% work and 5% thinking after a few! Most of the stuff you wonder why its not explained better is opinion...............you know what they say about opinions.  

[oneraindog]

i know you are right pearl and i wish my brain could turn it off sometimes but i tend to obsess on stuff like that. i just cant stand being told a formula works without being told WHY it works. i have always had this problem. this is why i hated math in school.  
teacher: "just use this formula and dont ask too many questions"
 me:"SKDJFAJHSDFJKASDF"  
i lose my sh*t. haha

thanks for all the help.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Mine's pretty close to what Don described except an inch shorter. My actual handle is 4" which is near perfect for the size of my paw, then I leave 1.5" for the fade on each end for a total non bending section of 7 inches. Whatever feels most comfortable to you is what works the best. Some guys use a much longer handle section, but I just don't care for long non bending sections mainly because I make my bows shorter than some guys do at around 60" to 62" long. So I want it bending sooner past the fades for more working limb area on a shorter bow. Hope that made sense.
I'm no expert by any means, that's just what I've settled on that works for me.

[Shaun]

The BB is correct for ELB bows (arc of circle tiller). The arrow needs to be near the center of the string and bow, therefore the bow hand is just below the center of the bow.

Even in stiff handle flat bow design the bow tends to be better balanced and positive tiller on the upper limb and limb "timing" work better if the top limb is longer.

This is NOT a matter of "opinion", it is born out in practice and tradition. I don't know any experienced bowyers (100+ bows) who make equal length limb bows.

[PEARL DRUMS]

When it works perfectly both ways, it is a matter of opinion.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Equal length limbs works for me and that's proven results, not opinion.

But here's the thing, I think by the position of my hand and putting the arrow pass 1 1/4" above actual center of the bow the limbs react as if one was shorter and one was longer..........in principle that is. I think I'm actually making the bottom limb stronger by building my bows the way I do, so in effect it acts like a positive tiller on the bottom limb. If that makes any sense?
I know this debate could probably go on forever because everybody interprets information differently. Bottom line is do what works for you.
No matter how you arrive at the same destination, the desired result is the same for everybody. To make a smooth, accurate, shootable bow as close to perfectly tuned as possible, right?

[Art B]

Always an interesting read........Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

How do you build 'em rookie Artsy?

[Art B]

Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
How do you build 'em rookie Artsy?

I design mine for the way I grip my bows, and then grip a bow for the way it was designed. Now, does it get any simplier than that Pearly? Art

[Roy from Pa]

I make my bow's like OLD Arty does:) We make Man Bows, not girly bows like Pearly Boy:)

[PEARL DRUMS]

So you build them with equal lengths........I thought so rookie.

[Roy from Pa]

Don't make me take a road trip out there and thump ya a good one son:)

Yes equal length limbs bowyer boy...    

1/4 pos tiller for 1 finger over here.