pattern sander

[tenbrook]

Also how did you get off the alluminum drive pulley?  Mine is stuck on there.  Did you need a puller?

[bjansen]

I do remember that pulley being a little tight but I got it off without a puller.  I think I used some light heat from my heat gun and a few taps on the shaft (with the nut installed lightly, and a small block of hardwood on top). A puller would be better if you had one..but a little heat on that alluminum pulley will get the job done as well.

I think corian would work...but would it be too brittle?..I have never worked with it before.

[tenbrook]

I finished it up with some Corian.  Worked quite well.  Only cost me $3 for the new motor screws as I had some Corian the local shop gave me laying around.

As you can see in the photos its perfectly square to the lower portion of the drum but when I add the paper its way off.  I am assuming that when you apply pressure to the belt it all ends up square....is this your experience?

thanks again!

tenbrook

 

 

 

 

[2treks]

Something is goofy with that Cody.
It looks really nice the way youput it together, but it should be square all the time.
I have the same set up but made of steel.

Did you get the drive drum turned so it is flat?
Did the table get wacked and make it go out of square?

I squared my table once and it has stayed put, unless I wanted it to move.

I like what you made there, nice job(to all you guys)

CTT

[bjansen]

What a beauty and the cheapest pattern sander conversion to date.....plus the corian top can be used to cut meat.  

Great job Tenbrook.

[T Folts]

What do you guys do for dust control with the modifications?

[Roy from Pa]

I don't know Cody but the first pix without the belt on looks to have a tad wider gap at the top of the pulley. And maybe when ya put the belt on it's pulling the top in even more.

[2treks]

I will try for a pic in the morning Terry.
I have 2 hoses
One hose hooks to a box I made on the back of the sander, the box covers the whole back side of the belt and comes up to the side of the drum. The hose hooks to the bottom of the box.
The 2nd hose hooks to a big plastic funnel that I clamp to my table close to the idler drum when I am doing handle work down on that end.
Not perfect but decent. It takes ALOT of suction.

[tenbrook]

Originally posted by Two Tracks:
Something is goofy with that Cody.
It looks really nice the way youput it together, but it should be square all the time.
I have the same set up but made of steel.

Did you get the drive drum turned so it is flat?
Did the table get wacked and make it go out of square?

I squared my table once and it has stayed put, unless I wanted it to move.

I like what you made there, nice job(to all you guys)

CTT

The table is square but I did not get the drum turned down flat so I squared the table to the bottom portion of the drum as Bjansen recommended.

Did you get your drum turned down?

[tenbrook]

Oops, I see above where he now recommends squaring it to the center portion.  I was using this previous thread  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=008727#000000  where he was squaring the table to the bottom portion.  

I made a few adjustments and squared my table to the middle of the drive pulley.  Still not sure how accurate it will be.  I am going to see about having a machine shop turn my drive pulley flat tomorrow.

 

 

[Crooked Stic]

Yes your drum needs to be flat at least where you work will be on it.

[2treks]

That sure looks better, but when you grind a part it will take the shape of the drum.
I had my drum turned down just like Brian said. Flat except for the outer 1" on each end.
I have a pefectly flat spot in the middle 4 inches of my drum.
I think if you get that done you will be in business. Like Brian said. The cheapest Pattern sander yet. I wish I had about $297 of my conversion dollars back. Good job man.

CTT

[tenbrook]

Where/how did you guys turn your drum flat?  Did you do it yourself or go to a machine shop?  If you paid someone to do it do you remember the cost?

thanks!

[2treks]

I did mine at first with a big file.
Then I went to the machine shop and my guy down there hooked me up for free.
Only takes a minute on the lathe.

If you use a file, be sure to run some chalk over the teeth. It will help keep the aluminum from galling the file.

CTT

[tenbrook]

Cool thanks!

Last question for now.  

Where do you have the bottom plate (for guiding the pattern) in relationship to the sandpaper?  Are they even, does the pattern guide extend past the paper or does the paper come out past the pattern guide?  And last should the pattern guide be adjustable?

Thanks again!

[bjansen]

My guide ring is just like yours in relation to the paper, it is basically even with my 36grit paper installed on the wheel.  If there is a little difference either way, it will not be a big deal given you are going to final fit your pattern jig to fit a perfect riser in your form (that will take into account any slight variation in your ring circumfrence).  

Before you have your drum turned, try to create a pattern and run one through your jig as is....it may be fine already as I am sure that paper will  snug up tightly against your flat spot on the drive wheel.

[Crooked Stic]

I am going to be working on a jig tomorrow for a new riser accent. I will take some pics as I go and post them in a new thread.

[tenbrook]

Well I went to the machine shop to have my drive pulley turned flat (except for the top and bottom 1")  Cost me $20.  

While I was there I noticed a sheet of aluminum scrap.  He sold me a nice piece about 3/8 thick @ $2 a pound for $22.  I brought it home, drilled some holes, polished it and got er' mounted up.  Super solid and perfectly square!  :D

I still need to have the machine shop make my guide.  Told me he would do the job for $30 but I did not make it there by closing time so I will have to wait until Monday.  I am still undecided if I will put in a bearing or just keep it stationary.  Anyone have input on what works better?

Thanks

Tenbrook    

 

 

 

[2treks]

Well Cody, I guess you have found the pot at the end of the rainbow. To have all that same work done, I spent nearly $300 at my machine shop.
I am happy you got the deal you did.

I used a stationary collar. My thought was, no moving part to clog with saw dust and I offset it to allow for the dust to have a place to go.
I have used both styles and both work equaly well.

below are some pics of my set-up to include the dust catchers.
The black dust chute is movable to any location on the sander.

 
 

[tenbrook]

Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
I am going to be working on a jig tomorrow for a new riser accent. I will take some pics as I go and post them in a new thread.

Thanks!  Please do.