Bend through handle/sinew backed

[b.glass]

I have made one of these and since I got my trade bow done, (finally), I want to make another.

I know they need to be short. Is there a rule of thumb? I would like to be able to draw it to 26". How short can I go? Is 40" too short for that draw at saw 50#? How far can a bow with those specs be drawn?

I also had advice to put extra sinew in the handle area. How much extra? Twice as much, three times as much?

I am thinking yew or juniper or osage. I have some yew ordered and I'm waiting for it to get here. I don't have juniper yet either.

Thank you all!

Bona

[mwirwicki]

Well, this is straight from experience.  

50-inch tip-to-tip.  55# @ 26"
48-inch TTT.  60# @ 25"

Both are osage.  Both are sinew-backed, with three layers of deer leg sinew.  Both tips were turned back slightly and both had bulbous styled handles.  The handle section bent slightly only in the last inch or two of draw length.  Osage is very tough.  If you can get some, that is what I would recommend.

I made a horn/osage/sinew composite D-Bow that is 36" long and draws 40# @ 23".  I think that 40" is a bit too short for what you want to do.

[b.glass]

Ok. That helps. So it sounds like 23" or 24" is the most a 40" bow ttt at 50# should be drawn.

At a 26" draw the shortest the bow should be is say 48".

How wide did the bows end up being for you?

Bona

[Pat B]

Bona, an old rule of thumb for selfbows was to make the bow length no less than twice the draw length. Hence the phrase...a bow fully drawn is 9/10th broken!  Add sinew and you can probably take off a few more inches.
  Sounds like Matt has pretty good advise plus experience to back it up.

[b.glass]

Thanks Pat. Looks like you might get some rain!

[Pat B]

In wish we would but I think the storm is too far east for that. We are near the western end of NC.