Author Topic: Do I need a joiner?  (Read 365 times)

Offline Don Armstrong

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 548
Do I need a joiner?
« on: December 22, 2011, 09:28:00 PM »
I am getting set to make some takedown recurvess and longbows. Do I need a joiner for the angles on the risers and to square the risers. Is there another fairly easy way to do this, after cutting, with a table saw. Thanks, Don

Offline macbow

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2870
Re: Do I need a joiner?
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2011, 09:51:00 PM »
Don the jointer is excellent for squaring etc. I don't think I'd do the angles that way. I'd be more into using a belt  or disc sander to smooth out the angles after the cut.
Need some input from guys like Kenny M.
Ron
United Bowhunters of Mo
Comptons
PBS
NRA
VET
"A man shares his Buffalo". Ed Pitchkites

Offline Don Armstrong

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 548
Re: Do I need a joiner?
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2011, 10:07:00 PM »
Thanks Ron, In the DVD from Bingham', they used a joiner after cutting the angles on a band saw. I'm going to make a jig and use my table saw. I was wondering if the joiner would be needed or could I hand sand with a block or some other method to get a smooth surface. I had thought of a piece of 1/16" phonlic but many said you could get some noise. Don

Online kennym

  • TG HALL OF FAME
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • *****
  • Posts: 17318
Re: Do I need a joiner?
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2011, 10:19:00 PM »
Hey Don, smooth and square is good, even a little off square will make you pull your hair out!

It tips the limbs to the side and causes a lot of problems.

I saw mine with a jig on the table saw, then use a disc sander carefully to smooth up.

I put a pc of glass on the back of my next TD longbow riser full length of riser. Hope it doesn't make noise! LOL
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Offline Crooked Stic

  • TG HALL OF FAME
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • *****
  • Posts: 6065
Re: Do I need a joiner?
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2011, 11:21:00 PM »
Yep get it square first for sure. The most accurate way I have found is a sled for the table saw. It has to be square also. If you had two identical sleds so you did not have to flip the riser block on the second cut would be even better. You would be cutting both pads with the same side down and that would be square to one side and each other. I smooth mine with a long block sandig to 180 grit.Also the ramps need to be checked for hieght. That is laying a straight on each pad and they should meet right over center of the block and be paralrll with each other.  web page
High on Archery.

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©