Padded loops?

[psychmonky]

Can someone please explain how to pad the loops on a flemish string? I read all this about "10 strand padded to 16" or "8 strands padded to 14" but when I look for how to do it,I cant find anything more specific than "Add some extra material to the loops."

I get WHY padding the loops on a skinny string is a good idea, but HOW does one go about it? Am I over-complicating it? Is it really just as simple as throwing 6-8 extra strands on that are just long enough to twist into the loops? Do they have to be staggered in length like the rest of the string?

Any info you guys can give is greatly appreciated.

Scott

[chessieboy]

I've never padded a flemish string only endless loop but maybe someone else can chime in.

Bill

[Nim-rod]

I've only done one but it was easy. I cut some extra pieces about 5" long and before starting my twist just added them to the bundles so that no tags would be left in the loop and proceded as usual. Easy really.

[Pete W]

Stager in the extra pieces just like the regular ends . For a recurve I like to add the pading long enough to lay on  the limb contact area. It seems to help make it quieter.

Pete

[30coupe]

I lay equal numbers of extra strands in each bundle. I start with a 14" in each bundle, then a 13" and so on, shortening by one inch each time until I have the number of strands I want. Since the normal stagger on my jig is about 1/2", I start with the 14" strand about 1/4" shy of the end of the bundle. Then I lay in the next one 1/2" below that, so that the ends are between the ends of the full length strands. I wax the extras into the bundles well and start twisting. I do the 14" starters because I start my twists at 8". Since the middle of the loop is 1/2" or so beyond the start, this puts the center of my padding in the center of my loop. Then I just finish the string the same as an unpadded one. Doing it this way leaves me with a nice taper to the end of the string, which helps make for a quieter string in my experience.

BTW: I pad my loops with B50 and my strings are D97. I've found no advantage to padding with D97, so I use the cheaper, softer B50 for padding.

I hope this makes some sense.

Russ

[Davesea]

Thanks for asking this question.  And appreciate the detailed descriptions.
Dave

[psychmonky]

Thank you, Russ!...and everyone else who posted answers. That was the closest thing to a comprehensive explanation I've seen, and it really cleared things up.

Scott

[Nim-rod]

Now that I have thought about it for a bit an easier way to do it would be to just add a few strands to the whole bundles and before the final twist up just snip those extras out. You waste a few feet of material that way though but it would be easier especially if you wanted to pad the entire end sections.

[psychmonky]

So, assuming im using D97, how much extra should I add?

[Pete W]

I always pad to end up with 16 strands in the loops. My normal string body is 10 strands Df97 and I use DF97 for pading also because that is what I have. The pading material is not under strain, it is just dead filler to spread out the forces on the contact area.
Tie a string to a 20# weight and pick it up with your finger, then tie the same weight to a rope and pick it up.
 Larger area = less pain.

[30coupe]

I do pretty much the same thing as Pete W, but I've always got some dacron around since I use that on my old recurves. I usually pad to 16 or 18 depending on the bow. I try to make sure the string groove on the bow is pretty much filled. Some bows that means a couple more strands. Most do fine with 16. On bows with no tip overlays, I also go 18 strands...cheap insurance.

[TWarrows]

contact Chad Weaver aka(LBR) and get his new vid. with Rod Jenkins How to make a great bowstring..It covers Padding a loop and endless strings its a great vid and well worth the 20bucks..