hickory board bow advice TILLER HELP

[trentcur]

its going to be 66 long..... hickory backed with hickory. First off should I go 1 1/2 wide at the fades or 2"? I was going to run parrellel for about 16" outside the fades before taper.  Performance wise what have you all found to work best? I am going to put 1" deflex into the bow when I back it. would love some advise:) also I was thinking 1/8 on the backing............. what say you all. will post pics tonight! cheers

[Art B]

What weight bow you after? And what's your draw length? A longer bow can be made narrower, plus, being laminated somewhat narrower also. Much depends on bow weight though.....Art

[trentcur]

I am shooting for 50lbs at 28. thanks

[PEARL DRUMS]

1 1/2" wide, parallel out 12", then straight taper to 1/2" tips. Thats my favorite recipe anywho. 1/8" is fine on a HBH. Add 4" of relfex when you glue up, that will leave you 2" or so.

[Art B]

What style handle are you considering, bulbous or rigid?

I think for that length and being laminated that 1 1/2" limb width would work at that weight. But carrying the limbs parallel that far out can be looked out. Personally, I think you're getting into the bow length where longer/heavier limbs needs rethinking.

Two schools of thought here. Parallel to mid-limb using an 1 1/2" limb width and keeping the rest of the limb fairly stiff to the tips will help dampen limb vibration. Or, starting an 1 3/4" wide out 10" or so and then straight taper to tips. Here you would flip the tips from mid-limb to help dampen limb vibrations.

Bow length will handle your draw length regardless. But longer limbs are heavier, respond slower and produce more limb vibrations which all rob cast. Just a few things to jaw over......Art

[trentcur]

for the rough belly taper how does 5/8 out to 3/8 sound

[trentcur]

ok so my final design is as follows. 1 3/8 at the fades out to 12"....... then taper to 1/2" (will narrow later). I am goin to do a ridged riser (hill style). keep the advice coming I really appreciate it. thanks pearl and art!!

[PEARL DRUMS]

Dont listen to me man, I just mumble! Artsy has it going on in the geometery and design dept.

[Art B]

I'm just jawing here Pearly, think it's the meds I'm on :-).

If you go with that belly taper you're going to be whip tillered for sure. I would stay with the 1 1/2" limb width minimum.

Amount of belly taper really depends, first on limb design, and second, amount of reflex IMHO. If you don't want the string to slap the back of your thumb you really need to stiffen limbs from mid-limb to tips. So carry any belly taper to mid-limb and then that measurement on to the tips.

For example: 1" limb reflex, parallel limbs,  5/8" @ fades to 1/2" mid-limbs and on to 1/2" thick tips. Four inches of reflex as Pearly mentioned I would just carry a 1/2" belly taper from fades to tips. Adjust from there once the short string is on.

[trentcur]

ok had to think about that........ makes sense to me. I know your gonna say im making a mistake and I might be......... but I already ripper her to 1 3/8:) so I will call it an experiment. Ok thanks so much art I will post pics and keep her going. Cross me fingers;) and if it dont work Ill keep her 1 1/2 next time round!

[trentcur]

man.................. I have no idea how in the he*# I made this mistake. When I bought my big jug to refill my titebond bottle I somehow bought titebond original. I glued my bow all up (reflexed) and noticed that it seemed to be setting up faster than normal. So later I checked my glue ORIGINAL!!

So is this firewood...... its not waterproof and the differance in PSI rating is not that differant.

Anybody use te TB original????

THanks

[PEARL DRUMS]

Its fine. Just seal it good when your done with it.

[trentcur]

whew!!!!!!! ok pics for the days work coming up..

[trentcur]

here is to a days work

here is my board ripped to 1 3/8 with a backing strip ripped as well.
 

Floor tillered and bending nicely
 

Glued up with some reflex........ to be honest I am a little worried about my glue job. I scraped both surfaces with a drywall knife to rough em up, applied the glue (liberally) and clamped it down. But I see a couple spots that are gapping at the edge. I hope I can just force a little glue in their tomorrow and all with be ok.....
 

[trentcur]

BTW...... i know to leave her 24 hours for the glue to dry and cure. BUt should I leave it clamped longer to keep the reflex???? this is the first bow that I have put any reflex into.......... should i have heated her into form before backing?? I just glued the backing as I clamped her down into the reflexed shape...

thanks for all the help. A rookie does appreciate it:)

[PEARL DRUMS]

Your fine. Let it dry for a day or so. Next time you glue up read the back of the bottle. It will tell you to use clean, smooth surfaces. No toothing.

[trentcur]

ohhhhh..... I always left em smooth but I thought I had been doing it wrong? Maybe that was for glue that wasnt wood glue...... anyway..... cheers to a good day:)

[trentcur]

OK so this whole refex thing is teaching me a thing or two. My backing strip started to curl at the edge...... I had the backing strip not quite fit to the belly (was going to sand down after glue up). So it curled up a little which in turn started a crack in the backing. Crack runs parellel so it should be fine. I unclamped it and its holding good reflex. I squeezed in a little more glue and clamped this area again.

I think my clamps were a little week for reflex, always worked perfect for straight limb glue ups but this is a lot more muscle to hold still.

So I am going to give her a go tomorrow amyway on the tiller tree for giggles but ill be honest...... I dont have a warm fuzzy feeling on this one!

[PEARL DRUMS]

If it curled on the edge that generally means you put too much pressure in the center, OR your backing strip wasnt flat, it was dished out. Very common with purchased backers.

[trentcur]

Ya well it probably could have been either............. well I will give her a go anyway. Glued on some tip overlays. Ill let em dry, cut some knocks and start tillering.

Just curious...... on wood bows do the R/D bows perform better than the straight limb? My straight limb bows all shoot very well. But there has go to be a reason that people go through the trouble:)