A Few Questions From A New Bowyer

[Curtis Roberts]

Hello all, I am currently building my first bow.  I picked out a nice peice of maple and red oak to start.  Im not sure if I made a mistake when I cut the bow too length.  I wanted a 66" bow so thats what I cut it at.  Then I got thinking that a true measurment is from the nock grooves? Meaning my bow would be short?  Also, I bought some B-50 string material to try my hand at my first string!  Might be in over my head but its still fun learning.  If I was to make a string for this bow how long would I need to cut the strands for a flemish twist bowstring?  Thanks guys and gals, hope all is well with you.

Curtis.

[jtbluefeather871]

I built my first bow using info I found at poor folk bows. Google that, he's got a lot of good step by step info, including making Flemish strings.  I'm pretty new myself, but the gang here has a wealth of knowledge, too. Post pictures and they'll let you know what's going right and what to fix. It's a good group in here. Welcome aboard, and good luck with your bow!

[Bradford]

On the bow.. yes, you will measure from noc to noc.  so you will have about a 64" bow.

I don't do stings yet, so I am sure someone else will chime in on the string

[psychmonky]

X2 on poorfolkbows. Sam's site is awesome. There is also a TON of info here. Just search whatever you want to know and you will likely find hundreds of threads about it. The other option is to just post your questions. There is a TON of info and experience and knowledge here.

Oh, and yes you measure nock to nock.

Scott

[okie64]

Measure your bow nock to nock and then make your string 2 inches shorter than that measurement. That will give you about a 6 inch brace height or so. As far as how long to cut the strands to get a 62 inch string im not sure how to tell you that.  Lots of variation there as far as how big you make your loops and how far you twist it back down the string. Lots of people have different ways of getting their string length right and i cant really explain how i do it, i would just end up confusing you.

[Curtis Roberts]

I have started making a jig to get the string length.  I think its going to be a good starting point for me until I get the hang of it.  So if I end up with a 64" bow then the nock groove should be 1" down from the tip I assume?  Thanks for helping everyone.  I've basically been wingin it until now, lol.

[okie64]

It doesnt have to be an inch down from the tip. I usually measure down 1/2" on the back and 3/4" or so on the belly. Any extra wood past the string groove is just dead weight.

[mwosborn]

CR - I would recommend making a tillering string - loop on one end and not on the other.  Learn how to tie a bowyers knot so you can tie your string whatever length you need as you get it to brace.  Once you get  your bow braced up using the tillering string you can make yourself a string based on the length of the tied tillering string.  I like about a 7" brace and most of my strings are about 3" shorter than the nock to nock length - varies from bow to bow though.  Good luck.

[Pat B]

Why go to another site when you have excellent wood bowyers right here?
  I measure all my bows tip to tip because that is how long they are. I make my own strings so I don't have to depend on the industry for guidance but make my own Flemish twist string the old fashon way by having one loop at one end and a bowyers knot on the other so it is adjustable.
 Making a Flemish twist string is a simple process once you do it. Get Chad Weaver's DVD, "Doing The Twist" and you will pick up string making in no time.

[Bradford]

Pat has a point.. tip to tip it is a 66" bow.. When you measure for string you measure AMO.. noc to noc.

Always more than one way to skin that rabbit!

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Chad's video is how I learned to make strings. 4est Trekker did one of the best board bow build alongs ever done and you can find it in the how to's here.

[Loren Holland]

curtis,
theres a few guys on here that have their own sites too. poorfolkbows, was my first build a long, before i found tradgang. Sam has a great site, but so does Jawge, and if you just look for builds on here 4est's build had several hundred followers too. there are others, but the point is just try one, enjoy yourself, and take your time. not that its not fun, even if you blow one up, but its a lot more fun to have a shooter within your first couple bows. as far as the string, theres nothing wrong with b-50, i still use it, despite all the other choices. and you don't need a jig, just give yourself a few inches past each end for length, twist a loop, twist the length of the bow till you are almost to the other nocks, twist another loop or tie a bowyers knot about a hands width from the other nocks, and check your brace height. b-50 will stretch when you first shoot it anyways (i still don't buy pre-stessed either) so you will have to shorten it anyways.
you said, maple and red oak. are you backing with maple? it will work, but i would highly suggest hickory for your first attempt, due to its almost indestructibility. also for expense, i would recommend brown paper and TB3, it is tough and super cheap. use the maple to have a nice contrasting riser. just my opinion

[Curtis Roberts]

Thanks everyone, I am using the maple for the bow, red oak for the riser.  Im thinking about backing it with linen as my momma has some lying around from her own projects lol.  This weekend I may be able to get some pictures up to show everyone how its coming.

[jtbluefeather871]

I just read through 4est Trekkers pyramid bow build. Definitely worth trying out!  Are you using soft or hard maple? I tried a couple of bows with the maple I got from Menards. Turns out that was soft maple. Got one #20 and had one dazzlingly explode while tillering.  Not sure if it was just cause I'm new, or if the hard maple makes a better bow. Any more experienced bow makers have opinions on maple?

[Curtis Roberts]

Im using hard maple, not sure if it is going to work but Im sure gonna give it a shot.  Almost got it to brace.  I've been using a bow stringer for tillering and want to make a tillering string.  Question is, do I flemish twist the whole string after the loop is done then I leave the other end for a timber hitch?  Any bowstrings I have seen only the loops are the "flemish twist"?  Is this correct? lol

[Curtis Roberts]

So, after work today, I promptly headed to the shop to work on my bow.  I finnaly got it to brace height and everything looked good.  Got the bow working a bit and had it down to 24".  I fine tuned the tiller and thought okay lets try 26".  BIG mistake!  I almost had it in the slot when KABOOM! She blew into 3 seperate pieces of the bottom limb.  I dont think I worked the limbs in enough. Oh well, learn from my mistakes and move onto the next one!  This time it's going to be a red oak board.

[mwosborn]

Sorry she broke - but it happens.  Did you have it on a tillering board?  Pulling to 24" with a tillering board may be a bit much.  Do you have a tillering tree yet?  A good thread going on now on making a tillering tree.  Good luck on the 2nd one!!

[red hill]

Curtis, sorry to hear about the bow. Glad to hear about your adventure into bowyering.
Find a simple pattern for a flemish twist jig on hear and use braided fishing line for practice. Lots of great ideas and advice on this site that'll help you along.

[Curtis Roberts]

I had it in the tillering tree.  Do you not go past 20" in the tree?  How should I tiller it after that?  Thanks for the tip red hill, thats a good idea.

[Steve B.]

As you are tillering you need to exercise the bow many times as the draw slowly increases.  If the bow was dimensioned correctly for the wood type, draw length and weight desired, then you might be able to use the stick to 20", but I don't.
I use the tiller stick and string to about 16" then I'm done with that set up.  From there I tiller drawing the bow by hand  using a mirror or camera system.  I adjust tiller to suit my form.
Whatever the tiller device used, I would not want a young bow to be held at big draw lengths whilst I examine it.  If it breaks anyway then it could be a bad piece of wood or too dry or something else.