Anybody ever try an all bamboo bow?

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Just daydreaming outloud and kicking some ideas around. Has anybody ever tried taking 2 pieces of bamboo with nodes intact and gluing them back to back either in an R/D shape or just raised tips glued in reflex? I did have a MOAB Thunderstick at one time that appeared to be all bamboo (tri lam) with glass on both sides back and belly that was wicked quick. What I had in mind was just a boo backing glued to boo backing with no glass and a handle blank in between.

Any thoughts or info on this much appreciated.

[wood carver 2]

That sounds cool. I guess you would taper the two slats towards the ends and tiller by sanding the edges. I'd like to see a bow like that.
Dave.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

That's kinda what I had in mind, but wasn't sure if the belly slat would take the compression or not. Plus I have no idea on what thickness of the 2 pcs. of boo I would need, and what kind of poundage it would yield? I have some boo backings that range from 3/16 to 1/4" thick as is, when flattened I could get them thinner. I do think it would look really cool and I saw a trade bow last year that was nearly identical to this with the exception of having Ipe as a core wood. I think the bowyer put the extra boo on the belly because of some issues with the Ipe he started out with if I'm not mistaken. I believe he also said that it was the fasted bow he had made to date?

Anybody remember this?

[D]

I was at the TN Classic last year and I seen a guy that had one that had a boo backing with the nodes on it and another piece with the nodes on it for the belly.  I can't remember if it had a core or not.  I can't remember if it was a R/D or not.  Talked to him about it and he got into how he bought it for just 200 dollars so me and a buddy tried to buy it off of him but we failed.  I didn't see how it shot but it looked pretty cool though so it can be done.

[wood carver 2]

I don't think the belly lam would be a problem. Just look at fly rods. I think I saw a bow with a bamboo belly before. The only concern I have is how thick and wide to make the bow if you build it with only bamboo.
If you add a hardwood core lam, then the boo could be planed thin.
I'm liking this. I might try an all bamboo bow and if it comes out too light I'll give it to my Niece or Nephew.
Dave.

[Pat B]

Marc St Louis wrote an article in a recent Primitive Archer Magazine about making an all bamboo bow.
   I have a Cane Dragon, by Vinson Minor, that has boo back and belly with a maple core(boo could be substituted) and a boo back and belly bow with ipe core made by David Knight. Both are good shooting bows.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

This idea is sounding more promising all the time! Keep the input coming guys, I'm liking this.  

[Don Armstrong]

The Japanese have been making all bamboo bows, for a few thousand years  :D  . Don

[psychmonky]

Lol samurai weapon smiths built lots of things that most mortals aren't capable of though.

[Art B]

Yep!  

[4est trekker]

Like this?  

 

 

 

 

I got this as a rough blank from James Parker.  It doesn't have a bamboo core, but does has a boo back and belly.  The belly lam has been carbonized (i.e. heat tempered).  You CAN tiller by removing wood from the sides, but not very much;  it takes a LOT of side wood removal if you're tiller isn't near dead-nuts from the get go.  You really need to get each lam bending good on it's own.  Then, if you have any problems, you can alternate between side wood removal and knee tillering.  The latter is a technique James uses on his all boo bows whereby he actually imparts localized bending over his knee in stiff areas.  This actually induces a small, target amount of set.  

Also, be sure to alternate/stagger your node placement between the belly and back lams or you'll get a week spot that will cave/break.

I sure hope that helps  

[Pat B]

Your handle treatment is uniquely beautiful, 4est!   James builds a pretty good bow doesn't he. You ought to watch him carbonize the boo belly strips. Scarry!!!

[wood carver 2]

That bow is a beauty. Am I right in guessing that the belly lams are heat treated using a flame and done before glue up?
Does anyone know how thick the bamboo needs to be for a bow in the 45# to 50# range?
Dave.

[4est trekker]

Yes, the belly is tempered before the glue up.  I think at one time you could buy tempered boo belly strips from James (Huntworthy Productions).  I suppose with a little looking you could find another source.

Pat:  Yeah, he build one heck of a bow!  If he tempers bamboo like his finishes a bow, I bet he looks like a bat out of Hades with a blowtorch!

[Pat B]

James uses a big propane rosebud torch. Le looks like he starting back fires.
  Dave, The boo should not be any thicker than 1/8" at the crown at the handle. From there it can be parallel or tapered to the tips. The boo should be neat final thickness before tempering it too, I think.
  David Knight(Primal Need Archery) may have carbonized boo belly strips.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

4est- That's exactly what I was thinking about, thanks so much for the pics! I had completely forgotten about that bow until you posted those pics, now I remember you posting those a few months ago. It looks like it has some osage in there as well? Absolutely georgous!

[wood carver 2]

I have a bunch of slats and a torch. I'll set up outside and burn one before finish planing. I found that if you heat bamboo it cups towards the heat, so you have to plane it again anyway. I think I'll try 1/8" back and belly and taper both to 1/16" and add a tip wedge.
Are two 1/8" slats enough to get a reasonable draw weight? Or should I add someting else. A bamboo power lam?
My appologies to Semo-Hunter. I seem to have hijacked your thread.    
Dave.

[lovethehunt]

Mike at Pine Hollow may have some good info, He had some like that at Kalamazoo in January

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Not at all Dave, I'm really starting to get my creative juices flowing again with all this talk about bamboo bows. I've been out to the garage no less than half dz. times staring up into the rafters at my boo backings to see which pair would yield the draw wt. that I'm looking for.    

Also eyeballing my osage I have on hand and see if I could saw a nice piece out to plane down for a core lam. Sure wish I had the correct tools for the job, but poor men have poor ways and I always seem to find a way to get it whittled out.

[Art B]

You can build a fine shooter by using just two pieces of boo Chris. Stagger the nodes, and heat temper the belly (before glue-up). Add a tip wedge to beef that area up and plan on around 1/2" limb thickness at mid-limb. 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" limb width depending on length. Good luck..........Art