How do you do it?

[UnderControl16]

Hey alls,

Hope I find you all healthy and in good spirits. Haven't been around mich thanks to college but I suppose in some ways thats a good thing though I did miss bow swap.

How aways so with the semester coming to an end in a month I'll be heading back home for the summer and to work. Never the less I need something to do in my free time. I've done selfbows and board bows before but this summer I was to get into laminates and recurves.

Obviously laminates are a whole nother beast and my question is what do you use? What tools, what glues, what self made contraptions, and hints and tips are there, what books? Anything and everything on the topic I would love to know.

   Mo

[gudspelr]

Shoot, my first bow was a laminated longbow-if I can do it pretty much anyone can   .  I used a friend's form and hot box after the glue up (used smooth-on epoxy).  A bandsaw is really nice to cut the profile out.  Lots of guys use sanders to help shape the limbs, too but I had a scare early on and didn't want to risk it.  So, I just wrapped sand paper around a block, put the bow in a vise and went to it.  I'm sure it was slower, but really not too bad and I didn't have to worry about completely screwing the whole thing up...

To help form the sight window (after it was cut on the bandsaw), I used a 4 way rasp/file.  Used sand paper to get the marks from the file out.  Chain saw file for the nocks and away you go.  

Honestly, I don't think making a laminated bow has to be too complex.  If you have a friend who'll let you use a bandsaw (if you don't have one), that's probably the biggest thing.  Once the profile is all roughed out, you can go by hand pretty easily from there.

Good luck and post pics   .

Jeremy

[Dimondback]

Getting the proper "butt stack thickness/draw weight/taper amount" to work out as you intended is challenging. My first 3 bows came in at around 5-10lbs lighter in draw weight than I intended. I was using butt stack thickness numbers from Bingham Projects as I was using a second-hand form from them. I was using a total of .003" of taper (one .002" taper and one .001" taper) when the numbers that Bingams provides is based on a .002" total taper in the stack. On the fourth bow (I had already glued it up before I figured this out), I cut one inch off of each limb tip turning a 68" bow into a 66" and adding 6 lbs of weight to the draw. Shoots great!

Long story short, keep accurate records of each build and it's component dimensions so you can develop data for your particular process and form combination (Mirosoft Excell does this really well) and make sure you get the suggested taper requirements from the form/design provider to reach your desired weight. Have fun and happy rasping!

Also, use coarse sand paper to rough up gluing surfaces of phenolic accents and any other accents or they will pop off at some point. Rasp to the center of the of the riser and not from the center out to the glass...this can also pop stuff off that doesn't need "poppin' off".

[UnderControl16]

How do you figure out the math for the limbs? For example how do you change the thinkness of the limbs/the poundage at draw weights? Where is the cheepest to get good limb laminations or where do you guys get them?

[goobersan]

I've found John from Old Master Crafters to have the best prices. 847-623-2660   Not sure what his shipping costs are, but give him a call.

[kennym]

If you wanna go glass, here is how I build forms, it will work with any design. Best , easiest way I've found...

 http://www.kennyscustomarchery.com/Bow_forms.html

If you wanna go boo backed laminated, maybe Ol Roy, or Pat B or Dvs or any number of other guys
will help ya a little. I haven't dabbled in boobacked much...yet

Oh yeah, this might give a few ideas too...

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001165;p=1