Tiller advise

[Cuban Missile]

Unstrung it has very slight RD,  almost straight.   Where should I scrape on this?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Ya got a few hinges there. The fades need to move.

[Art B]

Could be my design or the limb's natural profile also Pearly. No way of telling without an unbraced front and side profile looksee.

[Cuban Missile]

This bow had a huge hinge due to a crack on the belly.  It was the bow I received for last year's bow swap and it has sat after a few rounds of shooting and trying to patch the crack.   I hate to leave it there so I'm trying to get under the crack and I have to take a LOT more wood off.  I'm hoping to get 25-35# at 29".  I'll get you some pictures when I get home.

[PEARL DRUMS]

The whole limb has to weaken down until it matches your weakest spot. Get your gizmo crackin'.

[Cuban Missile]

I figured I would tiller first and then once the tiller is good I would take off wood till I got under the crack.  What do you think?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Nothing else matters until the tiler is good. The more you bend it now the worse the frets get.

[Cuban Missile]

Yeah that worries me too.  Here are some pictures unstrung.  

 

 

[Roy from Pa]

[Steve B.]

I agree with Roy's assessment as the reflex's at midlimb should be flatter-looking at full draw and everything else curving but instead its all opposite with the reflex curving and stiffness seen outward from there.
If you want a super light bow then great you are on the right track but I would sinew the thing and retiller from there and have a heavier bow in the end.

[PEARL DRUMS]

It has a boo back Steve.

[Steve B.]

I withdraw my sinew suggestion.

[briarjumper12]

I would like to know how you get that oval in your pic.  I have CS5 but have no idea how to get a perfect oval like that.  It really helps you see the tiller of the bow.  I would like to try it.
John

[dmikeyj]

John, the oval is really easy to do in MSPaint, comes with Windows. All you need to do is grab the oval shape from the box of shapes and click a spot on the tip of the bow, drag to other tip, then drag up or down to get the oval curve you need.  You can grab and move the finished oval to better line up on the bow limbs.  It only takes a few tries to get it right regularly.
You just need to make sure your pic is level.

Mike

[Cuban Missile]

LOL Briarjumper... Photoshop is tooooo powerful for just a simple circle!  For all those MAC users you can download paint brush to do it.

[razorback]

Cuban, Looks like some scrapping in those areas Roy marked should get you a good looking bow. I just hope you don't loose too much weight in the process.

[Cuban Missile]

Yeah me too... If I do loose to much I have a couple of lams of Maple. Would that work for the belly or would that be too week in compression?

[PEARL DRUMS]

I would use osage lam's, or Ipe.

[Pat B]

I would work on the stiff outter sections of the limbs first. A few scrapes on each should get those areas bending better. After that work back to or into the fades.
  Adding a belly lam will get your weight back up but like Pearlie I would use osage, ipe or another strong in compression wood.

[Cuban Missile]

I was able to work the tiller out a little better.  I still have a little hinge on the right limb, but now there is a splinter on the back.  It looks like it was hit when it was cut.  I fear it is the end of this bow what do you think?