Finished - New project. An osage bow for elk this fall.

[troutremble]

New project! I just built a little sliver bow that turned out well so I thought it was time to make its big brother. I took it down to a single ring and removed a bunch of excess material. Its gonna be fun trying to remove the hook though, lol.
     
     
     
     

[Pat B]

Osage reacts very well to dry(with oil) heat so that "hook" will be no problem. Get the stave to at least floor tiller stage before you try to remove it.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Pat hit right on the money. Get some wood knocked of that dude and she'll straighten out real nice. Look forward to seeing her all done.

[troutremble]

Thanks guys. I'm headed home from work just itching to get back to it. Layout and wood removal tonight.

[Pat B]

Slow and steady!!!

[troutremble]

Ok, so I got it roughed out and realized that ring i had gotten to had a flaw. it looked like a gouge running lenthwise about two inches but I hadnt slipped or dug in, not sure what it was. the next ring was much too thin so I went to the second one down. I have it very near floor tiller now though. 60" ttt, rigid handle, 1 1/4" wide from fades to 9" from tips, tapers to 3/8". I have one pretty good knot mid limb (three pins in it) then a few other assorted minor pins that shouldnt pose a problem. Oh, and I still need to straighten the one limb out. I will post some pics tonight. Please keep the advice coming. I am shooting for 60# @ 26"

[troutremble]

Oops double post.

[troutremble]

 
 
 
 
 

[troutremble]

I thought I might back it with one of the new copperhead pattern cloth backings from rudderbows. I do have limited quantities of sinew i could use (perhaps on that large knot)if needed. I am assuming tbIII will be ok for gluing backing on.

[troutremble]

The bow also has a shake in belly of handle running about 10" up one limb. it does not go through to back of bow as far as I can tell. will this be a problem?

[Pat B]

Don't worry about backing it until you know it will make a bow. If the back ring is not violated around the knots or pins you shouldn't need a backing anyway. Get it built and shoot it 100 times before doing the purty up work on it. I would fill that check in the belly with super glue. You can tell by the discoloration it has been there a long time. You might remove it completely as the bow is tillered but it should not be a problem anyway.

[troutremble]

getting ready to make bow straight. Going to remove all kinks, take deflex out of one tip and reflex out of the other.

[troutremble]

 
bow is all straight now and floor tillered. ready to start bending wood!

[KellyG]

well you are on a roll now.

[Igor]

Haven't looked at your thread in a while....looking good!

><>
Glenn

[troutremble]

Need a tiller check please. its on a long string, pulling 60# @ 17" in this pic. How far out do I go before going to brace height to tiller?
 

[troutremble]

It seems to me that left limb needs to bend a bit more just out of fade and right limb is a bit stiff two thirds out. Opinions please.

[bigbob2]

From my limited experience your right limb actually is bending just a smidgeon more than left. Your lines are hard to see but it would help if you had vertical as well to locate various points with more accuracy. I have only built laminated glass bows so my opinions might be worth diddley squat anyway.

[Pat B]

Get it to low brace height on a short sting first. You look like you should be OK to do that.
  A long string will give you false readings because the leverage is different on a long string from a short string.

[troutremble]

Low brace (3"), 60# @ 20" right now. Hows it look?