For those who have "sinew" experience...

[J. Holden]

I'm wondering when in the building process do you add your sinew?  Specifically before, during or after tillering.  I have a good idea of how but am not sure of the "when".  Thank you!

-Jeremy    

P.S.  Not sure if it matters, this is in regards to a osage longbow that I'd like to add some reflex to.  It's fairly skinny and only 60".

[Steve B.]

I've done before and after.  If the sinew was planned then I'd get the stave to where its about to floor tiller, then sinew, then wait a month and tiller.  I've also sinewed fully finished bows, which adds draw weight and stresses that make retillering necessary.

[Pat B]

I've done both also. About the same results with both.

[J. Holden]

Thanks guy's.  We'll see what happens then.  If it doesn't blow I'll be sure to post some pics.

-Jeremy  

[PEARL DRUMS]

I prefer a 20" nutz tiller, then sinew. I dont care for suprises during a build.

[J. Holden]

The thought of surprises doesn't sit well with me either.  But I have one bow that is almost done and one that is about half way.  So the one that's almost done is gonna get the sinew and we'll see what happens.  It's only my third bow and I have yet to get one finished.  So, if it blows I still have one I can continue on.  This bow building thing is certainly a learning experience.

-Jeremy  

[PEARL DRUMS]

No promises on suprises. I weigh my sinew and try to use the same amount on both limbs. I just want my tiller to be as close to the same as it was prior to sinewing. Everybody has preferences, almost all work in the end.

[scrub-buster]

I like to get a bow to floor tiller before sinewing.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I am getting ready to sinew a little plains style bow. I talked to James Parker about it and he told me with self bows it's best to sinew after the initial tillering.

 Like Pearl said "no suprises"

[Roy Steele]

I also go to floor tiller. It's only personal preference to sinew a osage bow. Unless it damaged in so way.

[Bjorn]

I like to get it closer to 'done' before going to all the prep and process of sinewing. If it isn't going to be a great bow sinewing won't rescue it. Let shrink for a month and retiller. No wonder a professionally built sinew backed Osage bow is so expensive-it well should be!

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thats no kidding bjorn. Processing sinew is work. The rest isnt too bad.

[Pat B]

I only sinew a bow that I intented to sinew to begin with. If I'm going to the trouble and time of sinewing a bow I want the sinew to stretch to its max and the bow to be able to handle its part of the stresses, and the combo to perform well in unison.

[Bjorn]

I hope it is appropriate to ask this question here.........Has anyone used the Titebond Hide Glue? I have ordered some but not sure it will 'shrink' the same as heated hide glue that you mix up yourself.

[J. Holden]

Bjorn, ask away my friend.  I hope you get your answer.  Secretly I was wondering the same thing also.  Thanks for asking...

-Jeremy  

[Pat B]

Liquid hide glue has a short shelf life. If it is old it takes forever to cure. I have never used it but I've heard if it is fresh it works fine. It does have additives to keep it liquid so I don't know how it effects the strength.

[coaster500]

Bjorn asked "Has anyone used the Titebond Hide Glue?"

I am curious also?

[Pat B]

Titebond hide glue is liquid hide glue.

[PEARL DRUMS]

You will miss out on the joy of stinky, warm hide glue if you use the TB style!

[coaster500]