trying for redemption!

[broketooth]

im trying to redeem myself and salvage my bow swap status. pearl drums came up with the plan to help me with a stave. for my recipient, thanks P.D. .  here is the stave i have some pretty good tip movement on floor tiller. this stave is pretty snakey so im concerned about some areas that are stiff and now for the other limb

[Roy from Pa]

Get er done Ruddy. Best of luck, just don't let Stiks touch it )

[PEARL DRUMS]

Bend that sucka' Rudy! You wont hurt it and it will be eaiser to see with more bend.

[SportHunter]

Nice stave, looking forward to seeing the bow, best of luck Rudy.

[broketooth]

im guessin this the kind of bend im lookin for at floor tiller the other limb

[PEARL DRUMS]

Good enough. Now get a string on it just long enough to lay loose and pull on it.

[Roy from Pa]

I guess it's ok...  

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I heard that Roy, Don'tg make me have to come whoop a senior citizen    

 Ruddy that is a fine looking stick right there I'm sure you will dio it justice. With your wood woring skills and detemination iot will be a sweet bow I'm sure.

[KellyG]

Ruddy Get after it I bet you get a good bow out of that one.

[Roy from Pa]

I hain't skeered stickers boy:)

[broketooth]

i lost some of the reflex that P.D. had steamed in for me. i figured it was time to throw some dry heat to it and get some of it back. here it is  centered up on the caul . im going to cut some wedges to take out some of the prop twist if possible. my only concern now is the snakey fade on the left with the big hump in it. i'll have mor pics later

[broketooth]

i cut these wedges out of poplar they are not very big, i did however, cut them with the grain , so they wont bust when you clamp the stave to the caul. poplar is soft and wont mar the  bow wood

[PEARL DRUMS]

Good plan man. I only added 1". The twist can stay if you dont want to mess with it, it wont hurt a thing as the bow is straight tip to tip. Ignore that hump and tiller around it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Leave that oil off it. Just use your heat gun 6-8" away and it will be perfect. Oil is messy and doesnt seem to make any difference, for me anyway.

[4est trekker]

Pearl, that was a really nice gesture to help Ruddy out in his tough pickle.  Kudos!

Regarding the oil...to each his own. However, I've found that unless you're tempering the belly while inducing reflex (the former being rather overkill on osage), I HIGHLY recommend using oil.  It more even disperses the heat and helps draw it more deeply into the wood.  Further, it helps keep the wood hot longer, allowing you to more evenly heat the wood as you move down the limb.  Lastly, a very light coating on the BACK of the bow can help prevent scorching there when your form/caul is wider than your bow.  You can clean the oil later with mineral spirits to prepare it for finishing. Just my meager $0.02 that won't buy a hoot in this economy.  

[broketooth]

i am amazed on how difficult it is to prep elk antler tip overlays   :mad:

[DVSHUNTER]

Keep going man it is looking good.

[coaster500]

Ruddy looking good!!!  great jesture Drums    

Ruddy I may be wrong but be carefull around those fades....  that last picture shows most of the bend is from there. I am no expert so if I'm wrong please pay no mind ...

That's is going to make a very nice stick!!!

[broketooth]

i got the bow off the caul.   i left the middle clamp on to hold in place to show the amount of reflex i was able to put in. i also tried my hand at tip overlays.this proved to be not so easy as everyone claims. the prepped tip area. checking the mating  surfaces. glue up. i used 5 min. epoxy to glue these on. i  tried to get good surfaces  to join up. lost one peice of antler in my shop some where. i didnt even see where it hit , it got away from me so fast. i  would however like to see how y'all do this task

[PEARL DRUMS]

Looks good to me Rudy. Its too late to turn back now buddy! Get a string on it and lets get tillering.