Author Topic: Making Limb Pads Square? (Read 707 times)

Whitetail Chaser · « **on:** August 17, 2012, 04:53:00 PM »

Ok guys, I'm working on my first TD riser, and I have not yet cut my limb pads yet. I have a table saw (no jig yet). What is the best way to cut the limb pads square?

I've seen people glue one layer of glass on the pad to make it flat. Is that an option?

I really have novice level woodworking skills, so I need to get some info before I mess up my riser.

Thanks,

Brett

rmorris · « **Reply #1 on:** August 17, 2012, 06:28:00 PM »

This can be tricky, you first off need to make sure you cut each pad at the same angle. This is where the jig comes in handy. Once I cut mine I like to take some 40 grit sandpaper and a block of wood I know is square and then I C-clamp the block of wood to my table saw deck with the sand paper between the wood and the deck. I use just a little bit of force downward on the sandpaper and a lot of force of the riser agents the block of wood. I then keep rubbig the riser back and forth untill it is square. Since the sand paper is clamped down and get clogged I use an air compressor to clean it. Also if you laminate any wood together and the joint shows in the limb pad you will be able to see real quickly if it is square.

Sharp Shooter · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2012, 09:46:00 PM »

I made a jig out of plywood that I use with a table saw. I'll try to post some pics of it tomorrow, very simple made. As Ralph said, the riser block must be square and I like for it to be close to the length needed for the riser, doesn't have to be exact but needs to be close. Tony

Sharp Shooter · « **Reply #3 on:** August 18, 2012, 05:06:00 PM »

Brett, here's my jig for cutting limb pad square. Hope it helps. Tony

At this point just flip ends and cut the other pad.

kennym · « **Reply #4 on:** August 18, 2012, 09:31:00 PM »

Nice jig , Tony!!

T Folts · « **Reply #5 on:** August 18, 2012, 10:12:00 PM »

Mine is like sharp Shooter's without the clamps. You got to make sure your blade is 100% 90deg to the table or your pads will be off. I have used a jointer to fix them in the past. I will run a scrap chunk of wood to check before cutting the riser.

Sharp Shooter · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2012, 01:29:00 AM »

This jig works pretty well as long as the block is square.

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #7 on:** August 19, 2012, 07:40:00 AM »

The key as already metioned is being square. Those plywood jigs work great as long as the surfaces are square to the table. Once you achieve that they really need to be sealed to prevent warping.

T Folts · « **Reply #8 on:** August 19, 2012, 08:26:00 AM »

I'm thinking about remaking mine out of a synthetic material.

Sharp Shooter · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2012, 10:18:00 AM »

Hadn't thought about warping, I believe I'll make mine out of some other material as well. Thanks Tony

Whitetail Chaser · « **Reply #10 on:** August 20, 2012, 04:14:00 PM »

That jig is awesome. I'll have to make something like that to hold the riser block while I cut it.

rmorris · « **Reply #11 on:** August 20, 2012, 07:46:00 PM »

Yep, you cant beat a corrian jig...No warping and easy to work with. You can saw, router ant tap this stuff.

I actually made a 3/4" strip of corrian to fit my miter slot and attached it to my jig so that I get the exact same cut every time.

Sharp Shooter · « **Reply #12 on:** August 20, 2012, 07:58:00 PM »

I like it!!!

Jim Rocole · « **Reply #13 on:** August 21, 2012, 12:25:00 PM »

lOOKS LIKE i FOUND A NEW PROJECT. THAT CORIAN JIG IS GREAT.

rmorris · « **Reply #14 on:** August 21, 2012, 12:42:00 PM »

Best corian jig I use cuts the wedges for take down bows. It also uses the miter slot and makes nearly perfect wedges. There is some adhesive backed sandpaper inside the jig and it makes sure there is no slippage once it is all tightened down. It also allows me to use scrap wood that is just long enough and has one flat side.

Mike Most · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2012, 05:28:00 PM »

Ralph that last one is pretty slick....

Jim Rocole · « **Reply #16 on:** September 07, 2012, 07:14:00 PM »

I was walking thru the local Menards and noticed some scrap countertops. I asked about price and was told $2. I grabbed two clamps and made a jig. the edge rides the outside of the table saw.
around $6 total.

arrowlauncherdj · « **Reply #17 on:** September 07, 2012, 07:18:00 PM »

Very slick man, woulda never thought of scrap counter tops. Down here you'd have to keep that jig indoors bc of humidity, but I have some scrap MDF that I can use and make something just like that. Alread have the clamps.

dave

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #18 on:** September 07, 2012, 08:21:00 PM »

You need to seal the chip board under the formica. I will draw moisture for sure.

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #19 on:** September 07, 2012, 08:29:00 PM »

Here is a little trick to see if your pads are on plane with each other. Two straight edges that meet on the center line. They need to hit each other in line. If one is a bit higher than the other the high side needs to be lowered.This will also show if they are square with each oth

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Author Topic: Making Limb Pads Square? (Read 707 times)

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