Thinking about starting on this one again.

[KellyG]

I will get some pics up but I heated up the limbs and a trying to get the tips lined up better. I think it worked. I also cut the rawhide and took it off the curves. It would keep pulling loose from there. I then wrapped the edge of the rawhide with some fly tying floss.

I will get some pics up later.

[Roy from Pa]

Cool Kelly.

[KellyG]

ok here is where I am at almost full draw. No tillering done just some heat.

Near full brace

 

The tips

 

 

and the string tacking it is close I think I will try and tiller it some before getting them closer. I may be able to take a bit of wood out of the string grove.

 

 

I also shot a few arrows thru it just to see if the string moved much and did get a bit closer to the edge but I think I can tiller it out but will heat if I have to.

[Sharpend60]

You could leave it, just designate which limb is top.
That is unless the string isnt rear the handle.

If it's a lil left of the riser (righthanded) then it's basicly center shot.

[KellyG]

Shapend60,

The issue is it tracks good over the handle just gets to close to the edge on the curves.

[Roy from Pa]

Kelly I would get that straighter if it were me.

[Pat B]

Kelly, I think I would remove an inch from the tips of each limb, maybe even two. The long hooks are levers and will amplify any side movement. It might be hard to tame the bow while tillering with those long hooks. You can also remove wood from the outside of the bend(side of limb) to reduce it. The combo orf these two things might just get you in better allignment.
  You have plenty enough width in the tips to reshape them to get the string lined up better.

[KellyG]

Thank pat I will look at it a bit. I my look at cutting the tips later. I was able to make a few scraps and look it over a bit. I see some areas that really need work I will get the worked on.

For some reason I don't want to cut the tips just yet. I seen that one limb really needs to be thinned on one side and the other the middle third looks to be a bit thick. If all else fails I my need to add weight and cutting a couple of inches off each end my really be needed.

I will post my success and failures for yall to see. Now off to find an elk.

[PEARL DRUMS]

String grooves are an essential part of statics. As I mentioned a few months ago, whack a few inches off each static. One, its all dead weight, and two it will make alingment much easier. It has to be almost dead straight.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Remember, functionality before draw weight.

[Sharpend60]

I just worked up a static with the same issue.
I whacked a bit off each end.
Then used a side nock to get the string tracking right on the top limb. The bottom was GTG from the first stem bend.

[KellyG]

Ok this bow I have shorten and it is pulling 30# at 27". I pulled the rawhide off because there is a knot and a dip where it would separate when I drew it. I would glue it down then it would pop loose when I drew it.

So I am trying silk. It is going to go to my nephew if it turns out.

This is the dip just off the fades.

  [/URL]

This is the silk tie I got for 2 bucks at the good will and cut down. It will go with over lap at the handle. (as pat b told me to do).

  [/URL]

I will have to work on this one this weekend so I can get it off for Christmas.

I am also making a quiver from him and my other nephew out of fleece.

[KellyG]

Well got the back sanded down and got the glue off and pieces of rawhide.

Here is pic of the before and after on the same limb. I started on one end and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded well you get the ideal. But it is cleaned I will add glue tomorrow and get the new backing glued on.

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[KellyG]

Ok one side on.

Ok last night I used dawn and water and cleaned the bow after is sanded it and dried it the best I could.

 [/URL]

A bead of TTBIII.

 [/URL]

spread with my finger and the I use my finger as a squeegee to take the excess off. I let that get a bit tacky

 [/URL]

then a smaller bead of glue and smeared it again

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then I put the silk on and used my finger to press the fabric down pulled the sides down and pressed out any bubbles. I did this until it looked smooth.

 [/URL]


I will do the other side the same. the file the edges like I do snake skins.

This is how Pat B told me to do it or as I understand his instruction. Pat please correct any mistakes I may have made.

[fujimo]

hi Kelly,
i like to saturate the silk( glue side) with glue, and spread some glue on the sized limbs( as you did) then place the silk on the limb- that way i get good saturation all the way through. dunno if its correct- just what works for me. i have used silk on a number of bows now- and i really like it- just where i needed the extra security on the back, one was a 1/4 sawn hickory backing strip on a HBI bow , that always seemed to lift microscopic splinters/ burrs/ fluff, no matter how much i sanded it- so put a layer of silk on it!
one was a bow that a mate was building at my shop, and he scorched the back  a wee bit while heat bending it, so we scraped it down to reasonable wood- and silked it- still shooting well today in aus- and he had killed a few goats last time i spoke to him!
i like the stuff.
but also really like rawhide too!

[KellyG]

Fujimo,

I had some hide on it and there is a knot and a dip where the raw hide would pull loose and I just did not like it at all. (on this bow).

Ok

I have let the glue cure for about 24 hours so I took my file to the edge like I would snake skins and it worked better then I thought it would. It was just as good as with snake.

 [/URL]

Close up of some minor curves in the fades and into the working limb.

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and the whole thing trimmed.

 [/URL]

As pat warned there are fuzzy edges I will add super glue to them and sand them I hope sometime tomorrow and maybe shot her Sunday. I will also go over the edge with a black marker to blend the edge a bit. I learned that from DVSHUNTER and like the look. Wife said no to doing the edge with silver. That white looking swirls are silver not white.

Well until I get some more done.

[mikkekeswick]

It shouldn't be making cracking sounds!?
Also when you make bows like this try leaving the handle full width until you have it braced then you simply draw the outline of the handle to match where the string is.
With what you've got the first thing to do is sort out the string tracking. Heat and pressure but again the TB3 isn't going to like too much heat.
Looking at the braced profile I would also cut an inch off the end of the recurves as it's just dead weight. Any excess weight at the tips makes a big difference to cast.

[KellyG]

thank it is cut down and the tracking issues are under control. I did that before I put raw hide off. If it makes the cracking sounds. It did not do that every time I drew it just when I noticed it the glued pulled.

Not an expert but We shall see. Whats the worse that happens I start a new on.

[Roy from Pa]

Well it's different..

[KellyG]

Eh beggers and all. If it works it will be going to south of you Roy ole boy. Near Charlestown WV.