Osage Advice Needed

[wislnwings]

 

I'm working on my first attempt at an osage selfbow.  I've identified the ring I want for the back (three rings down)and marked it with a pencil line all the way around the stave.  The stave is clean and for the most part, straight.  It measures about 66" long.  The one problem area is that which is shown in the first pic.  The second pic shows the same location from the opposite side (I penciled in the problem area to show its orientation).  This area is about 18" from the end of the stave.  How should I handle this area?  Should I follow the ring or should I leave additional wood in this area?  The dark area goes about a 1/2" deep into the stave.

[Pat B]

First off, why are you going down 3 more rings. The 2 above your choice look pretty good and chasing a ring is hard work.
  How wide is the stave? Can you eliminate that know with a narrower design? Will you post pics of the back and belly?

[DVSHUNTER]

I thin pat is right. With the length of your stave you should be able to avoid that spot altogether. A little more info such as draw length would help us help you.

[wislnwings]

Thanks guys.  The stave was given to me and someone had already begun taking it down to the indicated growth ring.  That was why I went with that one.  The width is 1 7/8"and the depth is 2".  I'd like to end up with something around 55# at my 27" draw.  As far as design, I've been following Dean Torges' book and Gary Davis' video for guideance.

[DVSHUNTER]

That's a good start.  Try and layout the bow with that knot outside of the limb.  With it being put towards the end it should be outside the limb.

[DVSHUNTER]

That's a good start.  Try and layout the bow with that knot outside of the limb.  With it being put towards the end it should be outside the limb.

[Pat B]

You can easily build a 55#@27" bow at that length and 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" wide. Try to get the knot outside the limb like DVS suggested. Just to be sure to follow the grtain on that side of the limb/bow.

[wislnwings]

Thanks for the help.  I will post an updated pic after I get it laid out.

[George Tsoukalas]

That knot can be disastrous. Can you lay it out to avoid it? Jawge

[wislnwings]

I am a bit confused about how to lay out the bow.  When laying out the centerline, do I follow a straight line down the center of the stave? Or do I lay out the centerline by following the grain and then lay out the limbs based on the distance from this line? For example, if the limb should be 1 1/2" wide, then 3/4" to either side of the centerline following the grain.  Hopefully my question makes sense.

[DVSHUNTER]

Follow the grain as best you can then measure from that line like you posted. Try and hold your line away from the knot.

[Pat B]

The grain will swirl around the knot. Be sure you don't cut through that grain but allow it to swirl around where the knot was.
  After I find the center line, following the grain, I draw lines across the limb at 4" incriments from the handle to the tip and make my measurements at each line and matching measurements on both limbs

[George Tsoukalas]

That's just it you can't compensate for that knot because the stave was cut with a bandsaw at least that's what it looks like. Yes, wisinwings, draw that center line following that lateral grain. Then measure on either side of it for your width. Check this.

 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/layout.html

Can you do that and take a photo so we can see it?
Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

If you can't leave extra wood on the width, which appears to be the case, then you can leave  extra wood on the belly. That area can't bend as much as the rest of the limb. It must appear flat when tillering or it will break. How wide is the stave? Can you tell how much wood would be left is you draw knife or cut the knot out? This is a good gift. It'll teach you a lot about making bows. Stuff you don't read in books. Jawge

[wislnwings]

I'll get some measurements and post some pics tomorrow when I get back home.  Following the lateral grain makes sense now. I really appreciate the help guys.  And yes this is teaching me a lot, and making me realize how much more there is to learn.

[wislnwings]

Okay, I have taken the stave down to the chosen growth ring, although as you can see in the following pics, I left wood in the area around the knots for now.  The dimensions are as follows: length 65".  I took the remaining measurements at each 16 1/4" point along the stave (beginning with the knot end): point #1 1 5/8" wide, 2 1/4" belly thickness, point #2 (middle of stave) 1 7/8" wide, 2" belly, point #3 2" wide, 1 5/8" belly.  Point #1 fell right in the middle of the top knot.  As I said, I left wood over the two knots and am not sure how much to leave or do I take them down to the ring chosen as the back?
 
 
 

[wislnwings]

Here are additional pics of the areas around the knots.
 
 
 
 

[wislnwings]

I drew up a mock bow using the dimensions below to give me some visual idea of how a bow may line in there.  I realize I need to follow the grain, but this helped me visualize things.  The mock bow is 64", 4" handle, 1 1/2" limb width to mid limb, 1/2" tips, to limb 1 1/2" longer than lower limb.  The second pic is the knot area.  It looks like I need to narrow the limbs to get around the knot.  Any layout suggestions?
 
 

[wislnwings]

I'm still debating how to layout this bow.  I'm wondering if I should consider a sinew backing possibly.

[DVSHUNTER]

Like pat said the grain will swirl around the knot.  You will need to follow that line down the center. I have a stave similar in my shop. I'll do a mock layout for you to show to a bit closer. Then you will have to lay out equal dimensions from the centerline .