Binghams Takedown - High Temp Masking Tape

[jvermast]

Has anyone ever had a problem with the Binghams Masking Tape not wanting to come off the Glass of a Recurve? Just did my second limb for a takedown and the tape seems to not want to come off at all, it's almost solid for some reason. Never had this issue before

Can I just sand it off by hand slowly and re-polish the glass?

[Canadabowyer]

Try a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun then scrape with a peice of scrap wood.  Bob

[jsweka]

I personally think the "High Temperature" tape is a bunch of hype.  I use plain old masking tape from Wally World and never had a problem.

[Big-un08]

I agree with John. I have a roll of the blue "painters'" tape that I use. I put on a double layer and it comes off just like it went on, in one piece. I too, have had the same problems with the temp tape. Spent well over an hour trying to get it off.  

[bigbob2]

agrre with above painters tape does me.

[T Folts]

If you get alot of epoxy on the tape it will soak in and make it very hard to get off. Use the blue painters tape it works good and easier to get.

[jvermast]

Thanks for the information on what I should do next time

Anyone have any ideas for what I can do now? I didn't get any epoxy onto the tape (both sides are the same).

I think hand sanding it off may be my only option, it's on there pretty good.

[Trux Turning]

I'd sand it off

[scottm]

Two layers of blue panters tape from Wally world.Not One!But Two! My first glue up i tried one layer.Spent am hour picking it off.I now use two layers and it comes right off.You may try some denatured alcohol or acetone to see if it disolves the glue.Hope this helps ive ben there my self. Scott

[Monteria]

I use blue painters tape, but only one layer. I get a corner up and slide a razor blade under it, then lift slowly while coaxing it along with the blade. It takes 5 to 10 minutes to strip back and belly, and most of that time is spent getting a corner up to start.

Ill try two layers next time. Thanks for the tip.

Steve

[Robertfishes]

I only build one piece bows.. What I have been doing on my builds is this..first making my center line on the back glass and making a grid line every inch from center, then drawing my taper lines..I number each line from center to tips, I use a compass and digital calipers to make sure limbs are sanded same side to side and top number to bottom number.. after glue up I first sand off the extra glue off the blank, I then lay the bow blank on my build table and check center line with my eye and string..if perfect I grind the limbs to shape..so far no problems with line being off. I have been using the (white) high temp tape on the back and either blue or green painters tape on the belly. I pull the back tape off after tips have been glued on, riser shelf cut out and bow tillered, I pull tape off before rounding edges..that way I always have the center and grid lines to work off of. I have not had issues pulling the High temp tape off, I start in the middle of the bow  and work my way to the tips.. I'm guessing building 3 piece bows you dont know center until you mount the limbs??  Not sure why your having problems pulling the tape off, did you sand the shiney surface off of the glass before glue up?  

[kennym]

I take the tape off as soon as the bow comes out of the form, seems to really stick if you leave it on a day or two.

 Clean up edges and peel tape , then put new on and lay out bow...

If you get the tape started and pull endways and up gently while working it back and forth sideways, it works pretty well for me. You gotta get the glue boogers ground off first tho.

[Glunt]

I use two layers of whatever masking tape is handy - usually blue.  Old tape seems to stick worse than fresh stuff and as Kenny said, getting it off right away goes quickly.

If I have one thats a pain to get off, I sand a sharp edge on a piece of scrap hardwood and go to town.

[2treks]

Do like Bob Said and hit it with a heat gun as you get it coming up. Don't go crazy with the heat but get the tape started and pull it off from the butt to the tip. Blow the heat on it as you pull it off.
I have never had one that would not let go with a bit of heat.
Good luck,
CTT

[virgil.v]

Originally posted by jvermast:
Has anyone ever had a problem with the Binghams Masking Tape not wanting to come off the Glass of a Recurve? Just did my second limb for a takedown and the tape seems to not want to come off at all, it's almost solid for some reason. Never had this issue before

Can I just sand it off by hand slowly and re-polish the glass?

Hi,
If the masking tape is like you said "almost solid" it is because you cook the glue that is on the tape as well as your bow.
So, yes the tape is almost solid when you done cooking your bow.

You will remove the tape after the cooking anyway so why using it for ?!
To protect the glass from the glue ?!
It is not necessary at all.
The glass has to be sand to remove the coating that is on it for the differant stage of the making and before getting the final spray, so there realy is no need to protect the glass form the glue.
The glue is very easy to remove on the coating side of the glass.
If you are a little "afraid" to sand the glass then start by using a 320 paper it will work just fine.
Once reassured with the fact that to sand the fiber is ok you will use a more aggressive sandpaper.
When you apply the glue just try not to move to much your glass lamination.
Use a plastic spring clamp to hold in place the glass lam at the end of the table where you glue your bow it will help. ;-)
Have fun,
Virgil