How Creative Can You Be?

[Erwincm]

I am a new member who just finished building my first TD recurve from Bingham Projects. Building my own bow and shooting it with accuracy afterwards was perhaps one of the most rewarding projects of my life. It was really great making something with style, beauty, and utility that has been appreciated by all who have seen it.

I'm hooked and I'm already contemplating my next bow design. I'd like my next bow to include a riser design of my own. Obviously I'd like to continue to use the Bingham limb design since it is presumably a proven design and I've already fabricated my limb form tool. In terms of the riser design, can anyone tell me the rules of engagement? I'm new to archery so I'm totally in the dark here. For example, what's the riser length range, what's the sight window height range, how deep should the shelf be, where should the top of the shelf lie with respect to the string center, is there anything special about the riser profile shape or am I free to do as I wish, etc? Is there a guidelines of some sort for TD recurve riser/bow design that illustrates critical dimensions?

Thanks in advance for your help. Looking forward to being a part of this group. Special thanks to the admin for hosting the forum!

Regards,
Charles Erwin
Madison, AL

[talkingcabbage]

With the Bingham's design, as well as any other TD, lengthening or shortening the riser will affect the draw weight and performance, as will changing the limb pad angle.  I would suggest keeping those the same, unless you're up for some experimenting.  Really, any of the changes you mentioned will change how the bow performs, the accuracy, the draw weight, arrow flight, etc.

[heartlandbowyer]

Charles,
If you want a riser of your own design there only one way to achieve that, start trying different designs, try diff sight windows shelf heights etc. You already have a good set of limbs to work with just get yourself some riser wood and start shaping. Start with some lower price hardwoods like hickory or hard maple, you can get 1x4 hardwood and cut them to length and smooth-on them together to give you 1.5x3.5 by whatever length. Home improvements store usually carry these woods.

As far as your sight window I wouldn't cut more than an 1/8 past center without having some glass or phenolic for added strength. I am usually 1.25 to 1.5 above center for my shelf. Your weight will change with length of riser and limb pad angle.

And do use smooth-on or another proven epoxy not the cheap 2 part stuff in the tubes, limbs hurt when the slap you in the face or family jewels, believe me.          

Good luck & have fun
Cory

[heartlandbowyer]

I type to slow, what cabbage said too!

[Erwincm]

I understand that changing the riser-limb mating surface angle or limb separation will affect performance. I don't plan to mess with those features. I was inquiring more about aesthetic shape of the handle, sight window, shelf, etc. Forgive me for my ignorance but what do you guys mean when you say "past center"? Is that the vertical shelf position (ie arrow rest) relative to the center of the bow or the horizontal resting position of the arrow on the shelf relative to the centerline of the riser?

[heartlandbowyer]

Charles,
When I say cut to center or past center I refer to the sight window position. On a center cut bow the window will be cut in line with the string and if you nock an arrow the point will pointing left. As you cut past center the arrow point will become more in line with the string. That's assuming you are right handed. (Strike Plate)

Arrow shelf cut above center refers to the horizontal plane where the arrow rests. (Arrow Rest)

Hopefully I didn't confuse you more I think we are saying the same thing in different words.

As far as grip, window, etc be as creative as you want. The larger your sight window the more wood depth you are gonna want back to belly.

Good luck
Cory