Why do I always have tool marks I miss???

[perry f.]

Every bow I build I try to get better. However, it seems no matter how much I sand from coarse to extra fine, then inspect bow. After I inspect entire bow, thinking I have them all gone, as soon as I apply the first coat of finish, there they are. What do you guys do to ensure your tool marks are all gone? Thanks

[jess stuart]

Perry it helps me to take them outside and look at them in the sun from varying angles.  Once it begins to look good in the sunlight, I put a coat of lacquer sanding sealer and have another look it almost always shows the remaining marks.  My old eyes probably overlook more of them than your do. LOl

[Mike Most]

I dont ever start looking for those marks until I get to 320 grit....  :eek:

[Roy from Pa]

I make wood bows and know exactly what you mean. Every bow does get better, but it seems when I have one all done and look it over, I see a couple little rasp marks here or there. What I do is put the first coat of stain on, then check the bow end to end. Once stain is on, every little tiny scratch jumps right out at me, and I sand them out. But it never fails, I always find a couple places I've missed after the bow is all done. I'm thinking when we get that close our goal is to get er done and we get complacent at that point, which we shouldn't:)  Maybe have someone else give it the once over looking for tool marks.

[Pat B]

Thats just part of my makers mark. d;^)

[kennym]

Mine are always smooth as a schoolmarms arse.

   

Really, I always seem to find somethin somewhere that needs sanded just a bit.

Takin em to a good light helps a lot.

[Roy from Pa]

Mine are always smooth as a schoolmarms arse.


     

[PrimitiveSniper66]

I use coarse sand paper after a good floor tillering and shaping of the limbs and riser , after every scrap during the final stages of tillering I sand with a finer sand paper, sanding the bow from floor tiller to final tiller by the time I make weight the bow only needs only finish sanding, good luck, Curt

[Crooked Stic]

When you think you have them all gone clean and add a sealer then get them in good light and look at different angles. Remember you said the first coat is when they show up--  

[talkingcabbage]

I'll usually get a damp sponge or rag and wipe it down with water after I get done with sanding.  It will raise the grain everywhere on the wood.  Then go back again with a 220 - 320 grit and sand 'er up again. That usually does it.  But like Roy said, if you're staining it, they'll show up real good.

[scrub-buster]

I burnish my selfbows with a piece of deer antler.  Any file marks stick out like a sore thumb after I go over them.  A little sanding and more burnishing and they are gone.

[J.F. Miller]

sanding out tool marks from a rasps and files is pretty difficult. a sharp cabinet scraper, a critical eye and some natural sunlight makes it possible to get ALL the tool marks off before you start sanding. if you find stray tool marks you missed the first time after you start sanding, hit them locally with cabinet scraper. professional painters don't apply stain or finish to woodwork to reveal surface flaws. just sayin'.

[Furtaker]

When I think I'm done sanding,I wipe everything down with mineral spirits.That stuff will show the tool marks you missed.

[jsweka]

When I'm almost done with a bow, the best thing I can do is walk away from it and quit looking at it.  Those dang tool marks will hide from you while you're working on it.  The trick to getting them to expose themselves is to quit looking at the bow and they think they are safe and come back out.  Then after a day or so, while they are not spooky you can catch 'em in their unsuspecting state - a lot like deer.

[Robertfishes]

3 years ago I also had some tool mark problems...then I bought some 1.00 reading glasses, that really made a difference in my finish sanding. I havn't had to bump up to 1.25's yet.

[Mike Most]

Originally posted by Robertfishes:
3 years ago I also had some tool mark problems...then I bought some 1.00 reading glasses, that really made a difference in my finish sanding. I havn't had to bump up to 1.25's yet.

x2 plus 1.75s

[wood carver 2]

I agree with what John said. Take a break from working on it for a while. I go through the same thing with my wood carvings. It also helps to get someone to look it over for you in good light.
Dave.

[George Tsoukalas]

After I string a bow for the first time a rasp never touches it. I go to a scraper like tool which is actually my Swedish push knife used as a scraper. That leaves very few marks to remove. If there are any left I use a jack knife. Sanding is done with 60 grit. Not too much I do just do a light sanding on marks. Then 100 and 220 grit. Then I stop, dampen a paper towel and run it over the bow. The water makes any left over marks visible and raises the grain. I let dry and repeat until the grain is no longer raised. Then I sand with 400, and 600 grit. Jawge

[dfrois]

What works for me is VERY strong light (like 100W desk lamp) and looking at all surfaces from a shallow angle. I don`t bother looking until I`m at 240 grit or something (most marks are obvious before that). If I`m really looking for a smooth finish, the last step is with 0000 steel wool, and then a thin spray of varnish, to be rubbed off when the last marks are revealed. This may have to be done several times, to get perfect...or you may just be happy with a few, light, marks. That`s what I do with my bows...but then, I`m building for myself, not for someone else. If I were, I suspect I would not be happy with any kind of marks, anywhere.

Just my two cents, but I come from a metalworking background, so there may be better ways...and I still have a LOT to learn!

DF

[John Scifres]

When you are done tillering, go over it really well with a scraper like Jamie says.  This is the single most helpful thing for me to make sure I get the tool marks out.  I still miss some but I have gone away from stain or dyes on bows.  Makes for quick rework with the scraper that doesn't show up in the end.