Tillering feeback appreciated - Photos included..thnx

[CamoZ]

First bow...mid to late tillering stage (I think). This is a fairly solid gauge linen backed oak bow. Limb thickness at fades is just under 3/4 inch so it is on the narrow side from what I understand.

I have done very little to the fades. Do the fades need to bend as well?

If anyone could give me some more experienced opinions on the tiller thus far that would be great.

These pictures are at about 16" draw with roughly 26 or 27lbs and also not great in quality for this sort of thing. Sorry about that....I have the bow in low brace of 3" finally (at the advice of the good folks here)...

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

 

[CamoZ]

Looking at the photos I think I will try to fashion some sort of back drop so the shadows dont make it so hard to see..

[Roy from Pa]

I would brace that bow to 6 inches right now. You already have the limb tips bent to where they will be with a 6 inch brace. The bow doesn't look bad at all, but your outer 1/3 of the limbs are bending a bit too much, or we could say your limbs from the fades out to mid limb are not bending enough. And when you go to a shorter string to get to a 6 inch brace height, that will put more stress on the outer 1/3 of the limbs and bend them even more. So get the bow to a 6 inch brace and then Yes get the limbs bending more at the fades out to mid limb. The picture below is marked where your limbs are bending too much compared to the rest of the limbs. The bow looks good and you should be fine, but brace it to 6 inches and take wood off from the fades to mid limb. Use the gizmo and it will come out perfect. I would not pull that bow anymore on the tree till you weaken up the fade to mid limb area.

   

Here is what you are looking for. This bow has a good bit of reflex on the outer 1/3 of the limbs, so they will appear a little flatter than your bow. Also the last 8 inches of the limbs should be flatter, you don't want them bending too much or getting whip ended.

 

[Roy from Pa]

How about an un-braced picture of your bow? Also where your bow sits in the cradle of the tree, I would narrow that down to 1 in wide. Like this below.

 

[CamoZ]

Nice..thanks so much..very helpful. Before reading this I was seeing the profile in a mirror and I noticed that most of the bend is coming from the outer 1/3 or so of the limbs. I will work on the fades to mid limb area and post the results.

One question - Do I try to get any portion of the fades to bend too, or just from the edge of the fades...The riser is 9" with 2" fades so I am wondering if I should be trying to get more limb length by working the fades back and down a bit ??


 

I have to clean up the fades but for now I have not they play a big part of the arc..I have also been dealing with some ugly grains happening..

 

Thanks for your help again by the way..super helpful..It is my first bow so I am trying to figure it out as I go a bit here..

[CamoZ]

Pic unbraced..lays rather flat..no bend at all..

[Roy from Pa]

No don't get the fades bending. You are doing very well, just go slow.

[CamoZ]

[Roy from Pa]

Ok, your limbs will bend in a nice 1/4 moon arc. My limbs will be stiffer in the outer 1/3.

 

[CamoZ]

I think one of the reasons I ended up with a hinge (if that is the correct term) at the last 1/3rd of the limbs is because I was trying to keep a constant taper from thick at the fades to thin at the limbs..am I correct then to re-adjust my thinking and not worry about keeping them thin at the tips and thicker at the fades..I obviously have not been paying enough attention to the fade to mid limb area as much due to this thinking..

[CamoZ]

Wow your bow looks much more shaped and curved than mine..is your design different>?

[Roy from Pa]

Your bow doesn't have a hinge, it's just bending too much in the outer 1/3. Take wood off mid limb to fade on both limbs and it will be fine. You are doing very well for your first bow. Yes I induced deflex and reflex when I glued my bow up, so it has more curves.

This ole man is going to bed:) Night.

[CamoZ]

ahh..ok..well thanks so much for your input..

[CamoZ]

Update..I have it at a 5 1/2" brace which is about a 1/2" off the hitch hiking thumbs up way of measuring it. I worked on the fade to mid area on both sides..I am now at 22" draw (shootin for 26-27 so my wife can shoot it too).

It is starting to feel really nice to draw now so I know I must be getting close..

 

 

Can I just leave it braced all the time when not working on it or should I brace it finally at the end of all the tillering part?

[Roy from Pa]

That is looking super, and NO "never" leave a wooden bow braced any longer than working on it or shooting it. Glass bows can be left braced but not wooden bows.

[CamoZ]

I am checking into getting bow string..I am being told that I will need one custom made to get the right length for brace height etc..can I just get one that is 64" as my bow is 68 ntn?

[CamoZ]

Tillering complete...have a full 28" at 30lb draw..probably by the time it is sanded and the handle shaped (no idea what I am going to do with the handle at this point) it will likely come in at around 28lb..a bit under my target at 35lb but oh well.. I know what I need to do now for the Hickory one next..

Thnx for your help along the way with this guys..

 

[Roy from Pa]

That looks awesome. You did very well, congrats.

[LittleBen]

That does really look great. Better than most if my bows for sure. I could use a dose of your patience.

[timbermoose]

great job! my first 2 bows blew up on the tree, 3rd while shooting it in, still got the knot on my head i think.