Author Topic: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!  (Read 563 times)

Offline dinorocks

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Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« on: March 01, 2013, 01:13:00 PM »
As I mentioned earlier in the annual bow swap thread, I would like to make a bow (working on hickory now) with beaver tail handle wrap, beaver fur string silencers, and a beaver tooth (or other beaver bone) arrow rest.  To continue with my beaver theme I would like to make beaver chew marks at the tips and along the limbs.  I found the effect I was looking for experimenting on a scrap piece of hickory by using two round files taped together.  Would you think, if I didn’t “chew” to deep into the bow limbs, that I would compromise the bow?  I was originally planning that I would “chew” from the back of the bow to the side but now thinking that maybe I would “chew” from the belly to the side.  Not sure which way to proceed…  I have a hickory bow with a pyramidal bevel down the limbs that shoots fine.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated before I start “chewing”!  If the bow works according to plan, I will name it the “Beaver Stick”

Thanks!

Dino
"Speedy arrow, sharp and narrow."  GD

Offline Dan Landis

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2013, 06:05:00 PM »
Dino, there are several bows shown in the TBB vol.2 that have scalloped and notched profiles on the sides.  These are in the Eastern Woodlands Bows section.  Theses sound like they are very similar to what you are planning.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2013, 08:05:00 PM »
I would not do it on the back as that is the tension side. I'm sure it would cause the back to open up when the bow is drawn. How about close to the riser on the belly side?

Offline Sharpend60

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2013, 08:22:00 PM »
Check out the scalloped bows. You must plan accordingly, the bow will need to be somewhat over built.
A gent named Halfeye on the PA forum has done many, many of them.

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2013, 10:02:00 PM »
Depending on the grain and the level of aggressiveness of design, you can get away with a lot on the sides and belly.  Not so much on the back except at the handle and the tips.  It would be cool to make it looked chopped off by a beaver at the tips and ringed like a beaver will do at the fades into the handle.

p.s. It's bad luck to name a bow before it's shooting  :)
Take a kid hunting!

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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2013, 10:10:00 PM »
I'll fix that bow for ya Dino:)

 

Offline dinorocks

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2013, 11:09:00 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions guys!  Good point about naming the bow...with my "skill" I need the bow Gods on my side!  I wonder if I should scalp the bow before I finish tillering?  I guess, talking out loud, if I keep the scalping near the tips and fades, it should have too much effect on tiller(?).
"Speedy arrow, sharp and narrow."  GD

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Help with the "Beaver Stick" ...thanks!
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2013, 10:53:00 AM »
You won't have to do a whole lot to get the effect you want.  I wouldn't expect any effect on tiller especially if you limit it to the sides and/or non-bending areas.
Take a kid hunting!

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