BBI build along, my first backed bow

[Echatham]

was trying to show how nice and round the edges are... but you can't tell. just believe.

[Millhimes]

Nicely done eric. That is the fun part for me.I agree with macbow,hold off on the tips untill it is shooting.No use doing them if it blows.You having fun yet--Joe

[Echatham]

hells yeah I'm having fun!  all i want to do is work on it!  the wife and kids have other plans though!

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I know the feeling Eric on people with other plans. It is addicting! Great job so far... you are one talented fella!

[Echatham]

i took a few scrapes off each limb with the buck knife, to see how it would work. scraping is definitely going to be the way to tiller this stuff. good controlled wood removal. the surform just chatters across it and tries to pull up splinters on the edges. i need to get a straighter scraper than my deer cutting knife. what can i get at lowes or home depot that would fit the bill? I don't have time to wait on a delivery.... well, I do... but I don't wanna. my bow scale should be here tomorrow, and I really want to get to the short string on the tillering tree. but im going to do it the right way, and i think that means a straight scraper... or a slightly concave one maybe? definitely not convex like a hunting knife though.

[vanillabear?]

[timbermoose]

i used cabinet scrapers and a mystic scraper when i made my ipe warbow. came out 124# at my 31" draw. never could get it back behind the ear like the english though. too wimpy.  

[Echatham]

Holy....Moly! Thats quite the power stroke you got there timbermoose, what do you use for arrows? 3/4" oak dowels?

[timbermoose]

that one flings the 1/2" hand turned birch arrows, 34" long with 300gr forged heads. 7" feathers. buddy has it back in b.c. right now, still can't draw it to 28".

anyways, there are several woodworking stores that should have scrapers. if not you could use an old lawnmower blade. just shape it how you need and roll the edge. that's what i had for my first 10-15 bows.

[macbow]

Learning to use a scraper is to learn how to,sharpen them.
There are many how too Internet Infoseek on how to roll an edge.

With a straight scraper optimum use for me is a,slight bend induced as you pull it towards yourself.
I've even made a holder to make it easier.
I have several home made scrapers that work great.

I must confess my main tillering tool is a pneumatic drum sander.

[LittleBen]

Ron, sadly it's the same for me ... well a belt sander, but close enough.

[Echatham]

how deep do you guys cut in your string nocks? left mine shallow for now, and its just barely enough to hang on to the string for tillering. and theres no goove in the back of the tips yet because im going to add overlays. I know you guys have been saying to wait til it shoots to put those on, but im not really crazy about the string only being held in place by the grooves in the sides.

[LittleBen]

I cut mine in with a chainsaw file, although a rat tail file also works, just makes a slightly bigger groove.

Generally I cut the string grooves at least as deep as half the diameter of the file. This way it's deep enough for th estring and the sides of the groove are steep enough to hold onto the string firmly.

[macbow]

Usually my tips are,still a,little wide when first adding the grooves. Mine start almost the full,depth of the 1/8 inch chain saw file.
If I don't pike the bow, after adding overlays and,narrowing the tips there is enough left as a pattern for final grooves..

[razorback]

Eric, the scraper I use, I picked up at the hardware department in Sears. I have seen them there at several stored. You can also order one from 3rivers. They can be difficult to sharpen properly, but if you work it out they are outstanding. If you don't work out the sharpening of it, drop me a line and I'll give the cheat on sharpening. Try the correct way first as it is probably better, then call me.

[Echatham]

besides the risk of coming up light, and needing to pike the bow (honestly im not worried about it, i want 50, but if it ends up at 40#, i will be just as happy...well, almost) is there any downside to putting the tip overlays on before getting to the short string? It would really just make me feel better, because my tips are narrow, and i know they are probably alot stronger than i think they are, but that extra 1/8 - 1/4" of material will make me feel better. and just having the grooves on the sides and not on the back makes me feel like the string wants to pop out.

[Echatham]

Razorback, thanks, yeah they do have them at sears I see, sears is far. and 35 bucks?! think i might try the meat cleaver that we have never used! its got a straight, sharp edge... why not? i mean the buck knife has been working good, and it hasn't even gotten dull yet. i haven't removed a whole whole lot of ipe, but i have gotten to about 6" of string travel with the long string, at somewhere approaching 40# by feel. i have been taking it very slow and easy, not wanting to go to far without a scale, thought it would be here today, but looks like tomorrow.

[Millhimes]

Eric,there is no reason you can't put the tip overlays on if you want to.just leave them blocky in case you need to ajust your string center by deeping one side of the nock.If you are getting 6" on the long string,time to short brace the bow and check alignment.Brace it at about 1" or so and check it--Joe

[Echatham]

ok sounds like a plan. i got the ipe and maple layers of the tip overlays drying right now in the bathroom with the space heater, plan to have them drying on the bow tomorrow night. and i will get you guys some more pics soon. hasn't been much happening but thinkin... lots o thinkin.

[macbow]

Eric in the future you can a thick super glue (ca) for the tips it's all I use now.
With,an excellarator you can be shaping in 10 minutes.

On the scrapers a sharp edge is sorta not right.
With your cleaver you would start by sanding off the sharp edge making it square. Then the two corners get rolled,over.