BBI build along, my first backed bow

[Echatham]

thank you. that means alot. and i really appreciate the help. i have no doubt it would have been a far lesser bow without all you guys help.

[talkingcabbage]

I'm probably a little late, but I second Roy's "no arrow shelf" rule.  I made one on my first stick bow and I hate it.  Also made too deep of a pistol grip on it, and I hate it too.  I actually don't even shoot that bow anymore and have contemplated cutting the thing in pieces for firewood on more than one occasion.  
My favorite grip on a stick bow has become, well, no grip.  Just trim it down like Roy says.  I don't even use a leather rest anymore.  Just shoot off the hand.  Much easier, IMO.  But those built-up rests are great too.  Very easy to make and use.

[talkingcabbage]

BTW, very good job for your first bow.  Heck, good job even if it was your 50th bow.  That tiller looks about perfect.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

+3 for no shelf. It will shoot amazing with a rest like Roy talked about. Shelves are for glass...

[Echatham]

didn't have a whole lot of time today, but i did manage to clean up my tips a bit, sand down the edges of the limb bellies, and twist up my first ever flemish string.

 

 

is this twisted to tight? string came out long. I will probably just make another one shorter. this is a 6" brace after hand stretching... B50 by the way.

 

no work on the handle yet. tomorrow. and as soon as i get the handle narrowed, shooting will commence. gonna just use some 2016s for now. any recommendations on spines i should include in my cedar shaft test kit? i draw a solid 28", maybe a whisker more.

[Roy from Pa]

Yes it does look a little off, unless it's the angle of the camera. A bow limb will twist towards the weak side. So if it's not the camera angle then I would look at the left side where your thumb is. I can see it's a tad wider especially close to the riser. Also a biggie is be SURE the thickness of the limbs is the same on each long side edge of the limbs. If one edge were thicker than the opposite edge then it would twist the limb like in your picture. To get the string to line up better, you would need to reduce the thickness on the left side where your thumb is, and take off some of the edge where it sticks out a little.

 

Another trick is to deepen your string groove to move the string over, below is a neat pix to show you how to do it and the limbs.

 

Real nice job on your first string too. No it's not twisted too much.

[Echatham]

oh i wasnt asking about that... its a combination of camera angle and the loop being off centered a bit... i took a better picture but i guess i uploaded the wrong one. i was asking about the string.

[Roy from Pa]

The string sucks...  

[Echatham]

yah but does it have too many twists?

[Roy from Pa]

If ya only could read and comprehend son:) I posted just above that it's not twisted too much:)

[Echatham]

ooops!  guess i missed that part!  haha sorry!  ok good. i had heard somewhere that you dont want more than a twist per inch or something or other

[LittleBen]

Sorry Roy but I say go center sissy pants shot! Really either way Is fine . Whatever you like echatham

[Roy from Pa]

Well ya heard wrong:)

[Echatham]

What would you quantify as to many twists? because its probably going to need quite a few more after stretching... and 6" is a bit lower than i think i want, but i guess i will just have to see what the bow wants.  still hoping to get some input on what arrow spines for a starting point with this bow.  all my arrows are spined real heavy, for centershot bows.

[Echatham]

hey and do you guys think i should stain or dye the boo? if so what would you use? Im placing another order for supplies tomorrow, and im not sure what to fill my cart with. I need some better serving material, so thats on there, and a bottle of tru oil. think i will get a bareshaft test kit, not sure what spines though, maybe the 2016s will tell me something today.

[Roy from Pa]

3 complete twists per inch is my limit, I'm fine with two per inch. I would stain the boo, but it's your bow so only the shadow knows for sure:) Your bow is most likely going to like 40 to 45 pound spine arrows. Leave them a couple inches long and paper tune them for good flight.
Ya I know, what's paper tunning? LOL

[macbow]

I use Fiebings leather dye for staining the bamboo.
But any alcohol based dye works great.

On the string I think 3 to 4 twists per inch is not bad any tighter is supposed to start making a,difference.

I go both with and without cutting in a arrow shelve.
I enjoy shooting,of the fist as,they say. But usually glue own some sort of shelf for consistant shooting.

[Echatham]

holy smokes she shoots! put about 60 arrows through it with a makeshift leather rest held on with electric tape. (scared to shoot off the knuckle since i went to the ER to cut a feather out of my knuckle once) shoots fast! and hits where im looking.  30.5" 2016s with 150 gr tips fly pretty good. my wrist has been slapped enough for today so im making a shorter string, i couldn't get the one i had better than a 6" brace without it getting all kinked up.... about 3 twists per inch. i narrowed the handle down to 3/4" like roy said... and im good with it. handle needs some shape and it will be for comfortable to shoot. biggest thing for me right now is getting to a 7"+ brace.... i got big old blocky wrists, and lower than that i get a big old purple knot. arm guards are wimps like Roy.              I know I know... pictures.... gimme a while.... got a string to make and kids to pick up from school.

[Roy from Pa]

I would brace that bow at 6.5 to 7 at the most. It's a longbow not a recurve. So ya like how it shoots without a shelf cut in, Imagine That? LOL

[Echatham]

got it braced at 6 3/4 with a new string.... much better!  no slap.