BBI build along, my first backed bow

[Roy from Pa]

I glue the riser on after the boo/osage glue up is dry. Those padded clamps could work but in the future I would invest in metal c clamps and then use the padding. If you glue up like shown your bow is going to be flat in that area. Maybe that's the look you want.
 

 

[Roy from Pa]

     

 

[Echatham]

the only reason I didn't buy c clamps is i have heard alot about them getting loose in the hotbox. and although i am not using a hotbox in this build, i hope to soon attempt a glass laminate kit from binghams, i do have a couple c clamps anyway, and I think i will use them on the riser area with padding of some sort, im thinking an old belt?

[Roy from Pa]

I've been doing this for 10 years and never had a c clamp come loose in the hot box.

[Echatham]

hmmm, I wonder if thats the glue... do you ever use smooth on? because i think thats the one that people use who have trouble with c clamps, i guess the glue gets runny when hot and squeezes out or seeps in to pores, and the c clamps get loose... so I have heard, but again I have zero experience.

[Echatham]

here's a couple of pictures to illustrate what i was talking about earlier with the radiused riser, should i leave the riser back straight like this
 

or curved like this
 
I think i may go for curved because it seems like it would be less likely to come un-glued, and would take a better reflex.. anyone?

[Roy from Pa]

I don't use smooth on for wood to boo glue ups. So I have no clue if it would do that.

I would use the curved.

[Echatham]

i think so too. off to build a giant compass....

[Echatham]

hey my glue will be here tomorrow! I don't know if i will be ready for glue-up yet though, i'll be working on it as much as i can, but weekends over tomorrow so that might slow me down.

[macbow]

Before you try cutting your riser might want to do like Roy does or I do. Way better doing the handle riser after the boo power lam and Ipe are glued. Then use the bow to trace on to the riser.
I use 1/4 inch or less slats and glue them on after the bow is cured and,cleaned up.
I find it easier than matching the curve of the bow handle area.

On your gap at the power lam.
The glue,will fill it if you make,sure there is,plenty in that area . And clamp well.
To help with the gap the end of the power lam has to be so thin you can almost see through it.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Listen to Roy n the other veterans.... They steered me in the right direction and will do the same for u
You. More clamps you can put on the better. If you don't have enough clamp you can always wrap the limbs with bike tire strips after you secure the bow to the form first with your quick clamps.

Just a thought...

[Echatham]

ok i think thats what i will do, glue up everything but the riser and tip overlays, maybe tomorrow.  i'll get to work setting up the form more like Roy's, and maybe put together another dry run tonight. if i do i will get a picture up so i can get your thoughts on the shape. thanks for all the help everyone!

[Echatham]

Bowhuntineverythingnh03743, phew that was a mouthful, don't worry im listening! i think i have plenty of clamps, and i will use as many as will fit, and if i got room for any more i may go get some more.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Hahaha ya thats a long name.... Justin is better lol... Ya have to put up with Roy's old fart ways but man what a great guy. I email him almost every day and have a blast chatting with him. Your on the right track and will do well. Be careful with that ipe.... I didn't think that stuff was going to be as rough as the old guys say and boy did it kick my butt.

[Echatham]

you mean the allergy stuff?

[Echatham]

i have been wearing a dust mask, long sleeves and gloves when im working with it. and the bamboo too. I have done enough damage to my lungs and i have enough problems with my skin... I don't need to take chances!

[Roy from Pa]

Well I see twinkle toes Justin has warned ya and you are doing well protecting yourself. But I'm gonna post this anyway:)

One word of caution here, Eric. IPE is known to give some folks a severe reaction. I was one of those and it messed me up bad. So use all the precaution you can. Rubber gloves, a good respirator, shop air ventilation, and wash your face, hands, and any exposed skin after you work on the bow.  

I really think you should leave the riser out of the glue up process and just do the boo and IPE. That will let the riser section acquire a nice curve on it's own. After your glue up is dry, DO NOT CUT THE BOW OUT YET... Take a 13 inch long riser section, a little wider than your handle area, lay the riser section on it's side and lay the bow on top of the riser section and trace out the curve onto the riser block. Then cut that curve out as close as you can get to the line. Then sand it perfectly to the line. I don't know how you laid out you bow profile, but I make mine with equal length limbs and the center of my 4 inch handle is the center of the bow and the center of my 13 inch riser aligns with the center of the bow/riser. Just like this picture below.

 

[rmorris]

Eric, can't wait to see the finished product

Roy, kinda taste like a pine tree, I prefer to be able to float a horse shoe in my beer.

[Echatham]

Roy thats exactly what I'm planning on now, the bow glue up/cut-out that is. so far so good with the ipe. can the reaction be delayed or acquired?

rmorris, I can't wait to see it either!

[Roy from Pa]

Then I cut it out like this.