My first hybrid- to be discussed...

[MoeM]

So following heartlandbowyer`s advice this is the seperated topic regarding my first attempt for an agressive r/d hybrid.
 

Originally posted by heartlandbowyer:
Hey Moe,
It looks like the belly side fades of the riser are not equal, the right side of the pic looks to be longer. The limbs don't look off much I think most of the issue is the riser. Make yourself a new riser template in which both fades are equal double check your form also.

Start a new thread of this and more guys will pitch in.

Also you could take 3 inches of the right limb and 2 of the left limb and have 35#or so at 28 or a 56" bow that is around 28# @ 25 in, perfect for a lady or teenager.

The riser is suposed to be unequal; 15" overal with 4" uncovered grip area placed 3/4 below middle so the arrowpass will end up with the upper belly glass.
I just rechecked it`s placement and it is still in the middle and the limbs have same lenght.
)Maybe I had twisted the handleblank a bit when I marked the backcurve)

   
   
   

(last is only 20" draw and the bow rests on the pressurepoint)
Some specs;
strung it`s 61"ntn, the midsection over 24" is parallel 1,375" wide then goes to 0,6" at the groves over 20" along the back.
Taper is 2x 1,5mm/m/0.06"per feet (hope to translate it right..) starting at 2,2mm/0.086".

To get the limbends parallel to the string I`d first narrow the tips toward 3/8" over the last 10".

What do you think about it?? I`m looking forward to benefit from your invaluable experience!

[Crooked Stic]

Cant see the pics ?

[MoeM]

Hm damn I can see- this won`t make troubleshooting easy...
Can you see them maybe on "what did you do today" bottom of page 171? (just copied the links out there)
Can anybody else see the pics?

[takefive]

I can see the pictures.  I'm just a beginner, but the tiller looks good to me.

[Buemaker]

I understand what you have done and I think it is good idea, have done the same myself. Making the curve of the lower fade out on the belly side steeper you get more room for your handle and do not have to glue on overlays to make a comfortable handle. So long as the the fadeouts are flexing the same lenght/amount you are okay, the inner part do not flex anyway. They do not look the same, but that is fine. My two bits anyway. You could of course have used a power lam to get the bend further out from the handle If you wanted. I think it looks good. Bue--.  

[MoeM]

Thanks Bue, I also thought about using a powerlam- simply a piece of black glass- just to ensure the fades bending the same despite the different ratios of the fades.

[heartlandbowyer]

Moe,
That makes I bit more seance to me now as to why the fades are different. It make makes the belly side profile look out of whack to me. The back profile does look to be bending equally though.

You could still add a power lam to the belly side, I'm pretty sure Kenny M did it that way in his " Bow Test" thread.

[kennym]

I did add a powerlam on the one test bow, still have it and it shoots great!

I can't see the pics, but sounds like Bue and Cory have it covered.

[MoeM]

A belly p-lam outside the glass?! Isn`t it in danger to pop of soon?
It`s really anoing the only half of you are able to see the pics- I was also looking forward for some reflections on the form generally    :(

[macbow]

Just a question, what makes a hybrid?
To me it looks like a recurve with a little different riser.
Enough recurve in the tips so that the string lays on the bow.
Thanks

[shade mt]

i just finished staining a r/d that i done the exact same thing..i shifted the handle a bit..Making the fades slightly different. bottom a bit steeper. It worked out great. tillered up dead even for 3 under..I like it.

[kennym]

I don't think it any more likely to pull loose than the glass to wood...


So far, so good! But I'm like you , I would rather put em inside the glass so no ends are exposed.

[MoeM]

I changed the profile today- the widt decrease now starts with the fades and as swissbow promised some reflex has left the ends- the next one will leave the form with lower or no taper at all.
Will shortening the bow now give reflex there or will the opposit (wanted) happen??

But I realised some mistake I made- the belly boolams start with same thickness butdifferent distance to the middle so I got 3/8" difference beetween upper and lower fade at brace which I`ll have to eliminate.

[MoeM]

So I got it- for the first...
I think the Tiller is really OK right now, but not really for a longbow^^
Next one will have no taper to avoid string touching limb at brace. Or could cutting of 1-2" per limb have same effect?
(this brace is 7 3/4", a bit high I guess...)
   

[LittleBen]

Who ever said a bow had to be perfectly symmetrical? I think the bow looks great. the slight assymetry shouldn't be a problem shooting it. So unless it made for wall hanging I say its a great big WIN!

[Swissbow]

Originally posted by MoeM:
So I got it- for the first...
I think the Tiller is really OK right now, but not really for a longbow^^
Next one will have no taper to avoid string touching limb at brace. Or could cutting of 1-2" per limb have same effect?
(this brace is 7 3/4", a bit high I guess...)
 

I don't think that reducing or even use no taper at all will help making the tips bend more. Going the opposite way and eventually adding tip wedges might help. But personally I think the problem lies in the form of the bow. You have a lot of deflex and the point where the reflex starts is quite far away from the riser. It's closer to a recurve than a d/r-longbow. I would move the bend closer to the riser and make the radius where the limb bends into the reflex larger/wider, to get a bow that looks more like a longbow. Maybe reducing the deflex a bit might help as well.

----------
Andy

[MoeM]

I`m a bit confused- reducing the taper would move the bend closer to riser!? (I`ve already thought about some wedges)
The turn into reflex starts shortly after the riser- lower limb angle would be the only way to reduce deflex, right?

[Swissbow]

If you reduce the taper the outer part of the limb will get stiffer, bend less and this will move the bend closer to the riser.

----------
Andy

[MoeM]

Ah realised my mistake- I thougt that stiffer ends would go farther fron the string, but thant won`t solve my problem at all.
But when I look at    her  I thing cutting it by 2-4" I`ll get much closer to a longbows appearance.