glue or epoxy for bow build?

[critman]

Lookin' at a bow kit that has an IPE tapered core, hickory back and osage belly. Do you have to use epoxy for this type build or can you use TBII or III? Never did a build with a backing other than paper so not sure what kind of adhesive to use. If epoxy is required does it have to go in a heat box? Other than glueing on a riser (with TBII/III)have no experince with this but ready to take the next step.

[Bowjunkie]

I prefer to use epoxy, but don't have to. Titebond will work fine. The main consideration is how the pieces are prepped. If the gluing surfaces are smooth, I'd use Titebond, if they're roughened by coarse sandpaper or a toothing plane or such, I'd use a glue such as Smoth On epoxy which has gap-filling properties. It will cure at room temerature in 24 hours.

[Crooked Stic]

Lets clarify ROOM temp. The smooth-on page uses 73 degrees. So if your shop is colder then you need more time. If your shop is 90 degrees it will cure a bit quicker. Just sayin warmer is better.

[Pat B]

I have either used TB, TBII TBIII or Urac for wood backed or lam bows and never had a glue failure from any. They all work well if you use the manufacturers recomendations about prep and glue up.

[LittleBen]

I second what Pat B said. I have never, well rarely had a problem with Titebond III and every time I can attribute it to my own mistakes.

If the surfaces are prepped (i'd personally sand them lightly with 120 grit or something near there). And the fit is tight ... and I mean tight. Then you are good to go.

If you're using Titebond, when you clamp everything up, I leave the excess glue along the glue line where it squeezes out. I never wipe it away. While the glue is drying, if there is a very tiny gap, it will draw some of that excess glue back in.

[critman]

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I will use the TBIII. Sounds like it should do fine.

[RAU]

I've always used urac 185 for wood to wood and smooth on epoxy for wood to glass