HH straight bow build... Finished!!

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I know the length of the handle is 4 inches so the transition length from handle to limb

[MoeM]

Right 4"-4 3/8" so wheres the problem??? Just (riserlength-handlelenght)/2=fadelenght; thats it...
If your question isn`t answered I really worry about my understanding^^
(Usual Hill risers go 12" till 16" I prefere 14"-15")

[jsweka]

Yep.  I make mine 16" with a 4 inch handle area and 6" fades one each end starting at the ends of the handle area.  I maintain 1.25" with from the center of the bow (center of the handle) out to 18" on each limb and then taper to 1/2" at the nocks.

Not sayin' that's the way it should be done, just how I do it.  It leaves me a little wiggle room to reduce the limb width if it does come in over weight.  So most of my bows end up somewhere between 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" wide.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Ok jsweka... Sounds like I have a rough idea on what I am doing now lol. Thanks to everyone with info about these bows. I will post pictures of my progress... Just waiting on the material from Kenny. Can't wait to start this one... hoping to be able to do a little turkey hunting this spring!

[MoeM]

So John this means your bottom limbs are 2x1.25" shorter?!

[jsweka]

Moe - No. They're the same length.  Everything on my bows are symmetrical.  I'll decide which will be the top limb after first stinging, and the stiffer of the limbs goes on the bottom.

[Roy from Pa]

Gezzze, yunz's lost me...

[MoeM]

Sounds great and EASY John- I deal with the limblength at every new Hill because I try to get the shelf as close to the center as possible without moving the pressure point to low and getting a much shorter bottom limb.
Actualy I also started different length fades...
As I know from Roy that you`re OK I guess I`ll give it a try next time^^

[Draffish]

im glad im not thinking of making a glass bow you lost me on page one    hope it goes well you will have to post some pics as you build it for me and roy to understand lol...

[jsweka]

Moe - Yeah, I take the easy route.  I built a left handed bow once for my brother-in-law and that messed with my mind enough.  Can't imagine what different limb and fade lengths would do.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Hey Guys-
 So my bow is all glued up and I need to take all the boogers off of it when I get out of work. Then I want to get the bow to rough dimensions. My brain can't wrap around the handle area.

My riser is 16 inches long. My handle area is 4 inches. The handle width is going to start at 1 1/8 wide and 1 3/4 high. Since I will have a straight 4 inch handle that leaves 12 inches of fades... six inches on each side tapering from 1 1/8 at the handle to 1 1/4 to the top of the fade. I am sure this isn't correct. I want some of the fade area to bend but I just can't figure out how long my fades will be for this bow.

Can anyone draw or explain it to me please.... I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed I guess lol

[Roy from Pa]

That sounds long for a riser and if you get that fade bending, the riser could pop off.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Roy this is my sissy glass bow. Normally I make my fades 2 1/2 or so inches on my BBO but have no clue what I am doing on a glass bow.

[Roy from Pa]

Glass? OMG:)

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

lol I knew you would say that

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

So today I have been working very hard on the bow. After six hours I have all of the boogers cleaned off and one limb roughed out. I was doing this all by hand and taking it as slow as I could with the sander. I settled on 66 ttt and 1/ 1/4 inch wide limbs tapering to 1/2 tips. I followed advice from John and could not have got this far without him and Kenny.

It took me three tries to lay the bow out on the tape until I was satisfied with the lines. The riser is 16 inches long on the back and 4 inches on the belly for the handle. 6 inch long fades that will taper from the handle of 1 1/8 back out to the 1 1/4 limb. I may have to narrow the bow down because of one slight hick up.

During my sanding the tips and getting really close to the line I didn't notice my belt was riding up and the tip went under.... Small amount got caught under the belt but I saved it the best that I could. You can see the damage that it did but I believe if I either snip the tip by a half inch to an inch and then add the tip overlay on I will be all set. But I definately will need some advice on how to fix it.

Anyways... to the pics!!!

Riser is cocobolo and osage accent
 

My transition... I don't think they look bad for my first time
 

The tip damage from the slip
 

Brown glass on back and belly
 

A big THANK YOU to kennym and john for all of your help... will still need some more along the way but I promised pictures and figured this was a good starting point to post

Any comments or whatever welcomed!!!

Justin

[Roy from Pa]

Well sigh...

I guess it's Ok..  

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Thanks a lot retired guy!

[bigbob2]

all looks very good to me and the transition area is spot on! Not sure what to do re the tip though.

[jsweka]

Lookin' good Justin.  I think you have it figured out.  The fadeouts look great.  I don't notice any glue lines in the pic.

How much of tip is messed up beyond where your string grooves will go?  If it's all beyond where the string grooves go, it will be no problem.  Maybe just a shorter tip than what you wanted.  If it does lie where the string grooves will go, your best bet would be to move the string grooves in on each limb making a shorter bow by an inch or two.  This will increase the draw weight, but you still have plenty of width to narrow to bring the weight back down.